[Vwdiesel] Setting Timing Problem - 1982 Diesel Rabbit
jhsg at sasktel.net
Fri Jan 12 13:24:51 EST 2007
You didn't mention anything about tightening the cam drive pulley bolt.
You should have this loose when setting belt, etc, or else the cam goes
out of time from the belt tension pulling it off when tensioning the
belt, locating plate installed or not.
Sandy has a good point, but for a feeler gauge to find TDC, use a piece
of solid core solder. It squishes if it has to. Steel or copper don't
like to squish well.
If the cam was already at TDC when you rotated the engine getting the
pulley off, you couldn't have gotten it out of time that far, it would
have donked a valve then too, and not allowed you to rotate it past that
point... so you are most likely off in the relationship between cam and
flywheel just by a bit- highlighting the need to turn the engine by hand
before you hit the starter. Good you did...
Just be sure you have the right pointer on the flywheel, and the cam is
really on TDC, no tolerance for error here. The cam sprocket HAS to be
loosened so it can move independent of the cam when installing the belt.
82 Diesel Westy wrote:
> Sounds like you KNOW what you are doing. My first
> guess is the timing mark on the fly wheel is not what
> you think it is, try looking for another mark maybe.
> Everything else you did sounds Good.
> With the motor on this mark, make sure #1 piston is at
> --- Doug Presny <DPresny at cleantechpartners.org> wrote:
>> I have completed the timing process using the
>> procedure below. My problem is that when I rotate
>> the crankshaft 1/4 turn with a socket wrench,
>> something is stopping the rotation (piston on
>> valve?). I make the rotation very gentle, and have
>> not tried to put any real force on the rotation for
>> fear that I will damage something. Any guidance is
>> appreciated. I highlighted two steps that may have
>> introduced trouble. Manual transmission is in
>> 1982 VW Rabbit, 460 494 077 Bosch Pump (specs either
>> .88 or .93 +- .02 from recent table)
>> a) Needed to replace passenger side and front motor
>> b) Purchased timing tools.
>> c) Drove car into garage with engine running fine -
>> my daily driver.
>> d) Removed timing belt and injection pump.
>> e) MOVED CRANK UNKNOWN AMOUNT WHILE REMOVING
>> CRANKSHAFT PULLEY.
>> f) Replaced motor mounts.
>> g) NEEDED TO LOOSEN STARTER BOLTS TO REMOVE FRONT
>> MOTOR MOUNT BRACKET.
>> Timing Process
>> h) Cam lobes for #1 were already up, so almost no
>> movement of cam to insert locking tool.
>> i) Inserted locking pin in injection pump with
>> sprocket aligned with bracket mark.
>> j) Aligned the flywheel timing mark with bell
>> housing arrow (mark was two lines " II " on
>> k) Put timing belt on all sprockets and tightened
>> l) Removed locking tools.
>> m) Rotated crank counter clockwise until preloaded
>> gauge quit moving.
>> n) Zeroed gauge.
>> o) Rotated crank clockwise until timing mark aligned
>> with bell housing arrow.
>> p) Gauge reads 0.024 inches which is equal to 0.93
>> mm. - on spec
>> q) Repeated m through p to verify reading.
>> r) When attempting to rotate the crankshaft clock
>> wise two revolutions by hand to ensure no troubles
>> and to check tension on timing belt, I run into what
>> feels like metal hitting metal. I reversed the
>> rotation and the same thing happens 1/4 turn in the
>> other direction. I tried both directions several
>> times and the "stops" are still there.
>> My hope is that someone has run into this before and
>> can help me identify and recover from my error.
>> Thanks - Doug
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