[Vwdiesel] Changing from external v. regulator to internal v.regulator alternator
vwdieselbunny at yahoo.com
Mon Sep 3 13:33:51 EDT 2007
Thanks Sandy. It ended up that one of the mounting
tabs on the bunny alt was off just enough to not allow
it to fit. :-(
The stupid auto parts store changed to a new
alternator tester that won't allow them to run it
unless a correct part number is entered, and just
gives them a pass/fail reading.
They all hate it because unless there is a cross
number available, they can't use it. This is
especially frustrating because they can't do things
like tractor and boat alternators anymore.
Because of the simple P/F reading, they can't tell
exactly how many volts, etc are being put out either,
so they can't know if it is maybe on the edge and
about to die.
As a result of the stupid corporate people, they
couldn't test my boat alt either.
Because I had checked all the wiring and had no output
from the boat's alt, I went ahead and purchased a new,
basically generic GM 3-wire alternator.
Now, the AMP gauge has a reading! (No idiot light.)
Thanks for your help though. At least I learned
something in all this!
--- Sandy Cameron <scameron at storm.ca> wrote:
> At 09:55 PM 02/09/2007 -0700, you wrote:
> >Do I assume correctly that that bulb I installed
> >between the ignition switch and the exciter (blue)
> >is acting as the bulb in the dash and it'll go out
> >once the alternator is charging correctly?
> if you already had a idiot lite for theealternator,
> it would work for the
> volks alternator too
> And I'm not sure what size it should be. To be
> determined by experiment.
> I should do a measurement on one of my clusters and
> see what value he
> parallel resistor is.
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