[Vwdiesel] The sad story continues..... Brake problems
mark at shepher.fsnet.co.uk
Tue Jul 15 01:04:47 PDT 2008
Why should a master cylinder hurt only one brake?
If it's operating on it's own then this has been delt with on this site and
is a matter of adjustment of the master actuating rod....
Mark(Who replaces nothing that isn't broke)UK
----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig Osborn" <cosborn at epix.net>
To: <vwdiesel at vwfans.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 4:32 AM
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] The sad story continues..... Brake problems
>I have decided to replace the rear hoses, wheel cylinder, and master
> cylinder. The parts (with the exception of the hoses) are not that
> expensive and while I have it apart I might as well do it all.
> I found out that the pickup truck rear hoses are only available from VW
> they got me for $83.00 !!
> Question - When I went online to order the master cylinder, I found one
> said for ATE servo and one that said for BENDIX servo. My local parts
> also had multiple selections for the diesel PU truck. How do I tell which
> one I need?
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Tony and Lillie [mailto:tonyandlillie1 at earthlink.net]
>> Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2008 11:09 AM
>> To: Craig Osborn
>> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] The sad story continues..... Brake problems
>> Craig, I'd start with replacing the flexible brake hoses that go to the
>> brakes, both sides. We see this a LOT at our shop on older cars. In fact,
>> happened to me about six months ago on one of my 4000Q's also. What
>> is, the line sooks fine on the outside. But, it starts colapsing on the
>> inside. It doesn't allow the fluid to release back to the MC. To check
>> when the brake is hot and sticking (it doesn't have to be very severe)
>> loosen the bleeder screw. If fluid comes out, the hoses are the most
>> culprit. We've seen MC's do this also, but lines do it about 10 to 1 over
>> Let us know when you get it resolved, or if you need more help.
>> Tony Hoffman
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Craig Osborn" <cosborn at epix.net>
>> To: <vwdiesel at vwfans.com>
>> Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2008 12:25 AM
>> Subject: [Vwdiesel] The sad story continues..... Brake problems
>> > You may all remember my story last week about the bad drum brake job
>> > and
>> > the
>> > "cooked" wheel bearings.. IF NOT the story goes like this,
>> > A few days ago, I heard a thumping noise coming from the rear passenger
>> > side
>> > wheel of my '81 pickup. Never having messed around with drum brakes, I
>> > went
>> > to a franchise muffler/brake shop to have the noise investigated. I
>> > was
>> > informed that my brake shoe had broken into pieces. I authorized a
>> > that included brake shoe replacement on both sides, and a new wheel
>> > cylinder
>> > on the passenger side (because the bleeder screw was broken off). I
>> > additionally requested a brake system flush (power bleed) since I have
>> > only
>> > owned this vehicle for around 10,000 miles of it's total 200,000 miles
>> > I
>> > was not sure how old was the brake fluid.
>> > I paid the bill and proceeded to drive the 50 mile commute to work the
>> > next
>> > day and immediately noticed a drag that felt like the brakes were on
>> > all
>> > of
>> > the time. I also felt a vibration and heard a faint whining noise.
>> > arriving at work, I felt the wheel and noticed that the wheel was very
>> > on the driver's side rear, but not on the passenger side rear. It
>> > seem so bad as to prohibit driving, so I elected to drive the 50 miles
>> > home.
>> > When I arrived at home, I noticed smoke coming from the "hot" wheel,
>> > I
>> > assumed was bearing grease burning off or brake shoes smoking. I
>> > immediately took the car back to the shop. They put it on the lift and
>> > announced that the bearing was "fried", but that there was nothing
>> > wrong
>> > with the brake job that they had done. He said that the mechanic may
>> > over-tightened the wheel bearing and caused the problem so he agreed to
>> > replace the outer bearing. He said the inner bearing/race was OK. He
>> > said he "backed off" the nut so as to loosen the pressure on both back
>> > wheels so the problem wouldn't reoccur. I drove about two miles home
>> > felt the same drag and noticed the wheel smoking again. I took it back
>> > the shop and they said they will look at it tomorrow.
>> > NEW INFO STARTS HERE ...
>> > After a bit of arguing with the shop manager he agreed to replace all
>> > bearings. When I called him later that day to see how the job was
>> > progressing, he said that he discovered a problem with the brake
>> > and that he replaced all of the springs with yet another new set. He
>> > that this was the source of my brake overheating problems. He also
>> > said
>> > that after disassembling the drum and bearings that he cleaned and
>> > inspected
>> > all of the bearings and found that only the outer ones were damaged.
>> > He
>> > said that there would be no benefit to replacing all of the races and
>> > bearings. I agreed to this. When I picked up the truck he said that
>> > wheel was spinning freely and that he test drove it for about 5 miles
>> > everything was fine. He did not charge me for anything.
>> > When I drove it home, I immediately noticed a bearing whine coming from
>> > the
>> > rear. The brakes did seem to be fixed. I thought - That's it I'm done
>> > with
>> > this shop! - I will renew the bearings myself. Today, I did renew the
>> > inner
>> > and outer bearings/races/oil seal on both rear wheels. I took it for a
>> > test
>> > drive and it was very quiet. I thought that everything was great until
>> > went about 20 miles then I noticed a vibration coming from the rear
>> > wheels.
>> > I pulled over and found the driver's side rear wheel was smoking and
>> > hot to the touch. I let it cool a while and drove home very slowly.
>> > I need some help to try to figure out my next move!
>> > What would make one drum brake self adjust to the point of engagement
>> > while
>> > the other doesn't? Should I try adjusting (loosening) the hand brake
>> > cable
>> > as it seems to engage after one click upwards? Could the fact that
>> > is
>> > a new wheel cylinder on the trouble free side and an old one on the
>> > side
>> > that is giving me trouble cause shoe engagement? Does the self
>> > wedge hardware ever go "bad"? What happens if I disconnect the self
>> > adjusting spring?
>> > Any other suggestions welcome.
>> > Craig
>> > _______________________________________________
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