[Vwdiesel] More Quantum Questions?

Sandy Cameron scameron at storm.ca
Tue Aug 25 11:08:17 PDT 2009

At 02:33 AM 8/24/09 -0700, you wrote:
>In some earlier posts, there was discussion about "hillbilly" timing. Is
this moving the IP manually without use of the dial indicator till the
proper sound is heard?

Yes, Bill, It has worked for me, and I do not have a dial indicator.

 Moving the pump toward the engine advances the timing, increasing the
rattle intensity. Away from the engine retards, smoothing out the racket.

Start with a warm engine. 
Loosen JUST enough to be able to move the pump with a pry bar, the 3 front
bolts, and the rear one below the pump, through the rear support bracket.

Make sure you have removed all wrenches and sockets!

Ensure the cold start device is all the way in (off) and has full travel.
You might want to loosen the screw that seizes the cable core and ensure the
lever goes all the way down.

Make an index mark at the front of the pump, if there is not already one
there, to mark your movements.

Start the engine. If it is making a lot of racket, pry the pump away from
the block a hairsbredth (Hagar called it a pencil mark width) at a time,
until the racket subsides. If it starts to stumble, you went too far.

Since this is a personal judgement call, some other calibrations are required.

With the cold start all the way in, and the engine at operating temp, shut
off the engine, let stand a few minutes, and restart.
It should fire and run smoothly from the first stroke. Any hesitation or
stumbling means you have retarded too far.
Go back (toward the block) half a hair and try again.

I have timed mine for a quick reliable start with the cold start operated
(pulled out) for the first start of the day, at normal overnight summer
temperatures, 60 to 70f.

The final determining test is in winter, temp below freezing, cold start
out, 5/40 synth oil, good battery, cables, and starter, to get a start on no
more than 2 or 3 strokes.  No go? advance another half a hair.

So much depends on the condition of the engine, starter, and electrical
system, and the fuel quality. that definitive adjustment suggestions are
impossible, but it is possible to get very close this way, and perhaps
closer than with instruments.

A good doctor is 90% diagnostics, and 10% medicine.

Tighten the bolts.


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