[Vwdiesel] Block heater location observations.

Terry Briggs vbriggs at stny.rr.com
Fri Jan 16 13:24:20 PST 2009

I agree, that location is the best, but when it's -5 out and can't fit  
the car in the garage, I'll replace the original in the spring when I  
can actually stand having cold coolant on my hands  :-}
On Jan 16, 2009, at 2:20 AM, LBaird119 at aol.com wrote:

>   The big advantage of a block heater over the one you put in was
> evident on your hood, lost heat.  A block heater puts all the heat into
> the block and obviously will rise to the head.  One in the hose depends
> on siphoning to circulate the heat.  Heat is lost to the outside
> through the hotter hose, they usually use more heat to do the
> job and this can cause boiling, which can cause loss of coolant.
>   They should work much better in that riser hose that VW's have
> compared to putting one in a lower rad hose like when engine heaters
> first came out.  Replacing a dead block heater isn't necessarily all
> that bad.  Loosen the nut or bolt as far as you can without dropping
> the spreader off the end, inside the block.  Then a pair of channel
> locks to twist the heater free.  The hard part is getting the spreader
> pushed back in while pulling the heater out.  Usually you can get a
> screwdriver or such in there to bend it in enough to clear the hole.
>   New ones are a cinch to put in.  :-)  Once the hole is clear.   
> Bentley
> says to put it in the forwardmost hole.  I've always put them in the
> center one.  Much easier to get to.  The easiest way I found to
> pull an old freeze plug:  I did quite a few at the dealer, time was
> money plus banging on a chisel in limited space, overhead, for
> half an hour is not only irritating but very taxing on your arms!
>   I finally went to using an air chisel.  I'd do very short bursts,
> check, burst, check and so on until I'd broken through a slot
> about half an inch long, in the middle of the plug.  This takes about
> 5 minutes instead of a good 20 or more.  THEN use a hammer and
> chisel to finish up a slot.  Then punch in an agle ended pry bar or
> first a screwdriver if needed, to open up the hole for the pry bar.
> Lever it out until one end clears the block.  It still usually won't
> come out easily.  Last a pair of channel locks will grab and lever
> the heel end of them against the block and pull the plug right out.
>   A little sandpaper, wipe, a little grease and install the block  
> heater
> and tighten.
>   I really need to do a couple of these.  If nothing else the car is
> warm much faster in cold weather.  That and less wear and tear
> on startups.
>    Loren
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