[Vwdiesel] Block heater location observations.
vbriggs at stny.rr.com
Fri Jan 16 13:24:20 PST 2009
I agree, that location is the best, but when it's -5 out and can't fit
the car in the garage, I'll replace the original in the spring when I
can actually stand having cold coolant on my hands :-}
On Jan 16, 2009, at 2:20 AM, LBaird119 at aol.com wrote:
> The big advantage of a block heater over the one you put in was
> evident on your hood, lost heat. A block heater puts all the heat into
> the block and obviously will rise to the head. One in the hose depends
> on siphoning to circulate the heat. Heat is lost to the outside
> through the hotter hose, they usually use more heat to do the
> job and this can cause boiling, which can cause loss of coolant.
> They should work much better in that riser hose that VW's have
> compared to putting one in a lower rad hose like when engine heaters
> first came out. Replacing a dead block heater isn't necessarily all
> that bad. Loosen the nut or bolt as far as you can without dropping
> the spreader off the end, inside the block. Then a pair of channel
> locks to twist the heater free. The hard part is getting the spreader
> pushed back in while pulling the heater out. Usually you can get a
> screwdriver or such in there to bend it in enough to clear the hole.
> New ones are a cinch to put in. :-) Once the hole is clear.
> says to put it in the forwardmost hole. I've always put them in the
> center one. Much easier to get to. The easiest way I found to
> pull an old freeze plug: I did quite a few at the dealer, time was
> money plus banging on a chisel in limited space, overhead, for
> half an hour is not only irritating but very taxing on your arms!
> I finally went to using an air chisel. I'd do very short bursts,
> check, burst, check and so on until I'd broken through a slot
> about half an inch long, in the middle of the plug. This takes about
> 5 minutes instead of a good 20 or more. THEN use a hammer and
> chisel to finish up a slot. Then punch in an agle ended pry bar or
> first a screwdriver if needed, to open up the hole for the pry bar.
> Lever it out until one end clears the block. It still usually won't
> come out easily. Last a pair of channel locks will grab and lever
> the heel end of them against the block and pull the plug right out.
> A little sandpaper, wipe, a little grease and install the block
> and tighten.
> I really need to do a couple of these. If nothing else the car is
> warm much faster in cold weather. That and less wear and tear
> on startups.
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