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Re: Brake pads
On Fri, 3 Feb 1995, Andrew Shea wrote:
> Just took my 4000cs out for a drive. After some thought, I've decided
> I want to do something (small) about my brakes. I just had (a couple
> months ago) new rotors put on. Found out later that I could have gotten
> drilled rotors for the price that the garage charged me for the solid
> rotors. Needless to say I have a new mechanic. Anyhow, what will the
> benifit be, if any, of going to new pads? What brake pads are out there
First, flush your brake fluid regularly. I cannot stress this enough.
Old brake fluid collect water, which not only corrodes internal
components, but lowers it's boiling point, leading to more "vapor lock"
and brake fade. A good DOT 4 fluid is the best for the street. I have
found Castrol LMA DOT 4 to be very good to me. Girling also makes a DOT
5 fluid that is NOT SILICONE, which is distributed by Autotech, a VW
Next, the stock pads don't work bad, but the Repco Metalmasters work
great. These are not "race" pads, and therefore do not require long to
heat up to work well. I am currently running them in Ohio in 20-30deg.
temps and they work fine. They do, however, work better in the summer
when they can heat up a little more.
The next step, which many others have done, and I plan to do this spring,
is to replace the rubber flexible lines at the wheels with a stainless
steel braided line. The rubber lines flex with each application of the
brakes, which reduces the efficiency of the hydraulic brake system.
I am told that the drilled rotors don't make that much of a difference
unless you run the car at very high speeds *very* hard. They are of no
use to me, as the would bump my Autocross class from stock to somewhere I
would not like to be.
- Brake pads
- From: Andrew Shea <firstname.lastname@example.org>