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Re: General questions on 82 4000s

I had the same problem on my '84 4000sq, on right turns the oil pressure 
light came on intermittantly.  I had an aftermarket VDO pressure gauge 
also attached, which didnt fluctuate at all when the light came on on the 
corners. So I tended to ignore it after a while. Then it did it on left 
turns, then the water temp light, and before long they were both on all 
the time.
I found that there is a small harness with 3 or 4 wires (I dont remember, 
it was a while ago) running in the engine bay down the center of the fire 
wall that went "under" the car. They were rubbing on the under cross 
member to the point of wearing through. 
Grab a flashlight and check down there, see if it's the same as the '84.

On Sun, 19 Feb 1995, Phil Payne wrote:

> In message <2F3FBDCF@bur.dmcc.com> Stott Hare writes:
> > Greetings,
> Reciprocated
> >    As the new owner of a 4000s, I hope that you'll pardon these non-q 
> > questions... but first some background.
> I think we're a pretty tolerant bunch.  And the apology implies you'll one day 
> reach all the way ...
> > Hard right turns would trip the [oil] light. No problem typical oil 
> > starvation due to lack of baffling.
> Most of us find that pretty rare.
> > If I was in fifth gear, about 2200 RPM and trying to accelerate, the
> > light would begin to come on.  Dim at first with a little/quiet buzzer
> > growing brighter/louder if I continued without downshifting.  This scenario
> > holds for other gears.
> > So right now I'm wondering if my oil pump isn't up to snuff, if I have 
> > blockage in the engine, or if the leaking valve stem seals could cause these 
> > symptoms...
> a) The daft ones first, but also the cheapest.  Check you have the correct
>    dipstick for your engine.  I know, it's unbelievable.  But it's very
>    common.
> b) Hard right turns.  Check both ends of any brown wires to and from the engine
>    block, plus any braided engine/chassis bonds.  On an old car, it's common
>    to find some moron has left one off when, e.g., changing the alternator.
>    On Audis, these things are important returns for instrument circuits.
>    Also, replace the connector on the wire to the oil pressure sensor.  That
>    wire goes bad 10 times as often as the sensor.  (Sender, in German) 
> c) Increasing problems with increasing revs - it's not the valve stems.
>    This type of problem is sometimes seen in cars that have not had regular
>    servicing/oil changes.  It's more common in turbos, but not unknown in
>    non-turbos that have had oil tip-ups rather than changes.  Basically, it's
>    sludge and wax build-up.  Some relief is available by removing the camshaft
>    cover and oil pan, and poking out the available oilways.  You can also try
>    deliberate short changes with detergent oil additives - never very effective,
>    I fear.  The key diagnostic is the service history - do you have documentary
>    evidence that the vehicle was serviced regularly?  If you do, we may have 
>    to think again.
> Phil Payne Sievers 
> Consulting UK 
> Vice Chair, UK Computer Measurement Group 
> Phone    +44 385 302803 
> Fax/BBS  +44 1536 723021 
> Fido     2:2503/415 
> CIS      100012,1660 

Bob D'Amato                     |Information and Technology Center
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