[Author Prev][Author Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Author Index][Thread Index]

RE: RF CV Boot job questions (5ktq)

> 1. Must the entire axle be removed or is it possible to "weasle off" the
> outer
> joint with the inner joint attached to the trans? (Seems to me I read a
> post
> to that effect.) I have circlip pliers, how bad is it to get the joint off
> the
> axle?
5ks are different than the 4ks.  I had heard that you had to loosen the
strut to be able to extract the half shaft on the 5k.  On the 4k and QTC it
is possible to unbolt the inner CVJ (8mm triple-square?) and then by
steering the wheel to full lock with the front of the wheel pointing away
from the car you can weasel the inner CV out of the drive flange.  I heard
rumors later that this works for the 5k as well ... but I decided to pay
someone to do it for me ...

You will probably find that there is a heat shield bolted to the transaxle
to shield the inner CVJ that you will need to remove as well.  

> 3. Besides the "boot kit" what all other parts do I need to order? Axle
> nut?
> (Does anyone besides Phil really replace these every time???) Inner CV
> Flange
> seal? What else?
... you've got it!  BTW, if you get the Lobro Boot Kit (I got mine from
Carlsen) it will likely include a replacement axle nut.  I guess I may be a
bit anal retentive, but I always replace the seal between the inner CVJ and
the drive flange and the axle nut ...

> 4. I have read several posts which state that end cutters will work to
> both
> crimp the clamps and cut the excess...I assume this is so?
Actually, I've even used diagonal cutters with success!  I now have the
"official" tool ... you can get them cheap from many auto tool stores,
VW/Audi doesn't have a monopoly on that type of clip.  The nice thing about
the "official" tool is that it has a special piece that keeps the crimp loop
from extending away from the boot too far.  Not that it is likely to be a
problem, but there isn't that much clearance between the boot and strut ...

I don't know what you mean by "cutting the excess" ... all that you need to
do is to crimp the loop.  Sometimes it is a PITA to get the "fingers" that
hold the clamp together to engage at the point that provides the most
initial grip though.  It is hard for me to describe this well in words, but
when you get to putting the clip around the CVJ you'll know what I mean.  

> 5. The boot split now several hundred miles back with many mountain road
> miles. The joint is not making any noises (yet) so I assume cleaning,
> packing,
> and boot will suffice? Should I consider a "rebuilt axle" instead or is
> that
> foolish?
You were driving on clean dry roads, and if anything you were flinging
grease out of the joint [looked at the inside of your wheel yet? :] I
wouldn't get a rebuilt half shaft based on that alone.  When you take the
half shaft out disassemble the outer CVJ and see how worn it is for the
mileage that you have, let that be the decision point ... I found the joints
on my 4kSQ with over 200k were starting to get a bit sloppy, but I left them
in anyway ...

I would appreciate hearing back whether or not it is possible to remove the
half shaft without popping the bottom of the strut loose ...

Good luck Mike!
Steve Buchholz
San Jose, CA (USA)