200q20v still not running update and call for 20vt experts
quattro at isham-research.com
Tue Apr 2 15:59:47 EST 2002
> After proceeding to the ECU/Hall sensor testing as per the factory repair
manual I have at home, the fault appears to be the Hall sensor. I still
have an RPM sensor fault code but after checking for continuity it seems to
be okay and related to the no-start fault code extraction proceedure. At
least I hope so....
First of all - a Hall sensor fault is usually crank-cam misalignment. It's a prime symptom of
the timing belt jumping a tooth or (worst case) the harmonic damper slipping on the crank.
The RPM sensor fault code tends to confirm this suspicion.
BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING ELSE:
Align the flywheel timing mark in the bell housing window. Use hand tools and only moderate
force to turn the crank. Check physical timing with the camshaft. You can (with difficulty)
get the distributor cap off - check that too in case the plastic gear has gone.
> Now, how the h*ll do I get this *£%@& distributor out of the head?
Usual way - grind off the shear bolt head, take off the cover, undo the clamp and pull.
> Do I need to pull the IM?
> Can't it be done otherwise?
> I hope yes because I don't feel like pulling the IM right now....could it be that an
internal wire at
the Hall sensor is broken and that would cause the sensor to be "bad"? Is
it possible to use a 5-window 10v hall sensor if it appears to be similar
to the spare one I have at home? It'd be cool not to have to buy a new
distributor, even though the new dizzy would have the metal gear....Also,
if anyone has a Bosch reference for the Hall sensor alone it'd be nice if
he would like to share it with me....
I hope those are the least of your problems. Over the last few months I've seen five cases of
Hall sender codes appearing - one was a bad immobiliser installation, four have been
monumental timing outages - three were spun harmonic dampers and one a failed crank oil seal.
Oddly, only two completely wrecked heads. However, with a 20V, this latter option isn't
One comment from an email last week - the 20V distributor arm is cemented to the shaft.
Remove it by crushing it with a vast pair of Visegrips or similar. Do not attempt to lever it
off against the wall of the distributor - you will bend the shaft and scrap the distributor.
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