maf cleaning

Arun Rao rao at
Mon Feb 25 06:30:53 EST 2002

When my MAF sensor went, the symptoms were vaguely similar, but I don't
think it even reached 1.3 bar.  Besides, the check engine light went on,
and the fault code unequivocally indicated a faulty sensor.   So the
first thing you should do is to dump the codes.

Hope that helps.


Brett Dikeman wrote:

> At 12:27 AM -0500 2/25/02, Chris Covington wrote:
>> Rumor has it that my 1.0+ bar boost bucking problem could be a dirty MAF
>> corrupted by my K&N panel filter.  Could someone describe how to "clean"
>> the MAF, or do I potentially need a new one?
> They can't be cleaned, unless the buildup is recent.
> Why?  Because each time you shut off the car, the thing heats the
> wire up to may hundreds of degrees, burning any residue.
> Note I didn't say burning OFF any residue.
> The majority of oil, dust, etc may get vaporized, but enough gets
> left behind.  Someone(Brandon, I think) sent me a toasted MAF sensor
> once, and I looked it over to see if in fact it could be cleaned.
> I tried 6 different solvents/cleaners with a q-tip and was able only
> to get a slight residue removed from the wire.
> A MAF sensor failure would be fairly exotic.  I would look for an
> intake system leak, such a loose hose clamp, or a busted Samco
> hose(yes, I think that split is all the way through.)
> Given your comments about the Samco hose, that's the first place I
> would look.  Basically, 1.0bar indicated is a lot more(probably
> around 1.2-1.3) on a chipped car w/different pressure sensor.  .8
> displayed = 1.0 Bar real-life. The shuddering is caused by the
> flapping of the split or loose hose.  The hose is doing a "motorboat"
> and thus you get the shuddering as that metered air escapes.
> Brett
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