Engine & Trans Mounts (very long)

todnad at comcast.net todnad at comcast.net
Tue Feb 15 17:17:04 EST 2005

Need to replace my engine & transmission mounts next weekend - 200q20vt 150k mi.  After searching all links I know of (audiworld.com, audifans.com, quattro123.com, members.aol.com/c1j1miller/, comcast.net/~gregsj2/content/audi200., sjmautotechnik.com/, etc.)  below is what I've come up w/on this DIY project I would like to tackle to save some significant money.  Any additional information appreciated (photos/BTDT's).  Have floor jacks, floor ramps, both bently's, & necessary tools to do this - just unsure on the order/best/easiest way to do both engine & trans mounts.  Any torque spec.s also greatly appreciated.

Checking/replacing motor mounts on 5ktq/200tq 
Checking it is pretty easy actually, replacing it can be a major PITA. Jack up car. Remove the 2 10mm nuts (15mm wrench) on the right side motor mount. A good motor mount will stay attached to the engine wing, a bad motor mount cup will fall into your hand. If you haven't done one in the last couple years, chances are it's bad. It is the main cause of broken EM studs and leaking #1 EM.

To replace on a turbo car. Remove the top of the airbox (might as well change the filter now). There are 3 phillips screws that hold the front lower heat shield between the turbo and motor mount. Soak them with PB blaster... I use a impact driver on them, but a good long #2 phillips will do the job. Wrestle that heat shield out (PITA, it goes out and comes in only one way). Now you are looking at the top of the motor mount. If you lost the lower cup, you will need to lock it with vice grips as you turn the top nut with 17mm socket. 

Install reverse of removal. To raise the engine, put a wood block on the oil pan and raise the engine so you can tighten the new mount down. For only 3 attaching points, it's not a fun job. Many times I've had to cut them off.


Scott Justusson
Reply to Replacing Mounts:
doing the motor mount was a big pain in the butt. I jacked up the front of the motor using my car jack and some boards to make it a little higher. Then in order to get it to fit I had to have 3 people (litterally) standing on my bumper to lower the car while keeping the motor up to fit the mount in. Then, I still couldn't get the top bolt on tight...there's just nowhere to get a wrench/ratchet in there so it's hand tight for now. I expect the driver's side will be a little easier. 

Anyway, it sucked. Tranny mounts took like an hour and a half, but doing the one motor mount took me 5 hours and I'm exhausted.
Its two pressed in bolts w/nuts on the chassis side, and 1 bolt holds the mount to the support arm. I had to vise-grip one of the pressed-in bolts to keep it from spinning. 

Cro is right, remove the airbox stuff, and try to find a hoist, or use a very well placed jack. 
 Oh, if you put a wrench on the bolt that holds the mount to the support and it just spins, you'll have to pull the support off the engine to seperate the two.
I think it would be a piece of cake with a hoist to support the engine weight. I also think it could be done with a floor jack appropriately placed without bending something and only do one side at a time. The hoist would be the way to go. If you remove the air filter housing you can get at the turbo side mount fairly easily. I am about to launch a total front end bushing replacement project and was thinking about doing both the engine mounts and rear tranny mount while I am in there.
Changing Motor Mounts 
1. Car on ramps. 
  2. Put a jack/stand on the motor as close to the mount as possible. If you 
     can't, you can use a 2X4 from above with chain/rope (this keeps the 
     motor from stressing the opposite mount during swap, and keeps mount 
     close to frame rail to put on 15mm nuts). 
  3. Remove upper mount nut (19mm I think) may want to soak it a couple of 
     days with WD-40, it tends to catch water by design. The problem is, if 
     the mount is spinning in the cup, you might have some time getting nut 
  4. Remove lower mount nuts (2X15mm). The engine is now resting on jack or 
     hanging on rope and the trans mount only. 
  5. Pull mount down and out. 
  6. Install new mount from below, 15mm nuts on first. 
  7. Install top nuts, torque to spec. 
  8. Remove 2X4/jacks. 
  9. Off ramps. 
 Transmission Mounts - REPLACEMENT:
On high mileage vehicles, over 120-150k miles, You need to support the rear end of the transmission with a jack stand, and then remove the bolts for the rear/side transmission mounts. There is a small heat shield on the passenger side trans mount that needs to be removed to gain access to the trans mount bolt on that side. This heat shield is held on with three screws (8mm head size). 
After removing the rear trans mounts (two 13mm hex head bolts/nuts) – replace w/new and reverse process.

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