No subject

Sat Jun 7 09:06:54 PDT 2008

timing belt on one of those), a few of the bolts go into oil passages, and I
think the bolts that hold the lower TB cover on are two of them. If you've
left that cover off, you'll spew oil like there's no tomorrow. When I did
the timing belt on one of these engines I used Loctite blue on all of the
small 10 mm bolts to make sure they sealed. Even leaving one loose can
result in a substantial oil leak. If the crank and oil pump housing are
undamaged, I think that is a more likely source of a leak than 3 bad new
seals (unless you are putting them in backwards of course) :o).

Good luck!

Fred Munro
'97 S6

-----Original Message-----
From: quattro-bounces at
[mailto:quattro-bounces at]On Behalf Of DK
Sent: July 25, 2008 2:39 AM
To: quattro at
Subject: Bad Oil Leak 4000cs

Hi all, back again!

Couple weeks ago when I did the timing belt on my 87 4000 (stock JT) I
replaced the cam and the crank seal while I was in there. Cam seal was
no problem, no leakage afterwards. With the crank seal I managed to
damage it while installing it (along with some oil for lube). Week
later when I got replacements, the seal went in all right, but maybe
it didn't go in all the way. At the third try, I bottomed it out with
the help of a PVC adapter - but nevertheless it still leaks pretty
badly (quart per 100miles)...
Before the TB job there was a slight leak coming from around the seal,
everything else around the pan was dry. I removed the seal by
inserting two screws  and pulling/rotating it out. There is no visible
damage on the crank or oil pump housing. The other thing what I may
think could cause the problem is the gasket between the block and oil
pump. When I removed the lower TB cover, I didn't put it back on, but
even with it now it still leaks around the seal and the gasket area.
Do I have to pull the oil pan in order to replace that gasket? And if
so, do I have to mess/lower the sub frame in order to access it?


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