[torsen] Re: diffs and flaming.............sorry it's long....

J123fs at aol.com J123fs at aol.com
Tue Feb 13 21:02:05 EST 2001

Again with my .02 .
Regarding all this comment(s) on the diff position: Rear lock or unlocked, 
center Torsen, or early manually lockable.
I again have seen much opinion, and little hard fact, other then the quoted 
SAE papers........
.................There is truth in both sides of the argument regarding this 
SAE engineers and authors have vested interest in disseminating valid 
information regarding testing done in a scientific manner, and ergo, Scott 
has some good experience although "seat of the pants" and not really based on 
actual testing with accelerometers that may or may not be valid. 
The key here is to address real world usage of the cars as anyone (Myself 
included) with a smidgen of knowledge of chassis tuning knows what works 
correctly at 10/10s DOES NOT WORK at anything less, and certainly would not 
be acceptable for mass consummation or "run of the mill" driving styles or 
Hence the factory cutout or the locked rear diff at a predetermined (LOW) 
speed, so as not have massive oversteer at the INEVITABLE HIGH slip angles 
the cars will encounter ( the same as rally cars, off-road  live rear axle 
racing trucks, and welded diff (or  NO DIFF) dirt track cars experience). 
In my own feeble but informed opinion, what works on a packed snow surface ( 
or other low CF surface) where rear power (really power oversteer)  steering 
and high correction factors ( slip angles) are both fun and the fast way to 
go, that really have 0 bearing on any street driving, or high performance 
pavement driving both in the wet or dry.
I would challenge some of the posters to back up their arguments with sound 
physics and a bit of reading on the nature of what really holds a car to the 
road, as I think both sides can learn valuable insight as to different ways 
of looking at things for different situations, conditions and driving styles, 
not just to flame each other.
See Ya
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