[urq] Vacuum Line Replacement

Brandon Rogers brogers at terrix.com
Mon Nov 24 13:05:52 EST 2003

IMO, knowing what I know now, if I were to buy another urq right now (which
I'm not) one of the first things I would do is spend a weekend and replace
every vacuum line in the engine bay.  Steve is right...they are everywhere
in there...and I bet lots of them are original...all stiff and ready to
crack if not already.....A real PITA but probably worth it IMO..


----- Original Message -----
From: "Buchholz, Steven" <Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com>
To: <urq at audifans.com>
Sent: Friday, November 21, 2003 5:38 PM
Subject: RE: [urq] Vacuum Line Replacement

> ... you aren't serious are you?  Have you looked at all the lines running
> around below the intake?  :-)  The stuff that you need the most of is the
> small diameter tubing ... just buy a bunch of that stuff (10 feet?), and
> then see what other sizes there are.  It's been a while since I've been in
> there, so I don't remember how many sizes there were, but I'm pretty sure
> there were three basic sizes.  The other sizes you probably don't need
> than a couple feet of.  I found the "correct" cloth braided stuff for not
> that much money at a FLAPS.  Don't worry about buying too much of the
> stuff, it can be found in other places like the vacuum lines to the diff
> actuators ...
> I would not suspect that a vacuum leak on a WX engine would have much of a
> "warm up" nature.  There is *some* chance that the F/TCU is screwing up
> ignition timing due to the bad coolant temp gauge, but I'm even a bit
> skeptical there.  I would be most suspicious of the fuel mixture myself.
> fact, the thing that kicked my butt for the longest time turned out to be
> problem in the OXS Freq Valve drive circuit in the ECU.  For some reason
> circuit would not work properly until the engine had been running for a
> while, and in my case the engine would idle fairly well, but run like crap
> off idle ... even the slightest bit.  I started to clue in on it when I
> noticed that I didn't hear the Freq Valve buzzing under the hood.  You
> should be able to tell if there's an issue here by looking at the OXS Duty
> Cycle.  The other thing to do is to check the control pressure curve and
> system pressure with a fuel pressure gauge.  This is a very crucial
> variable for the engine, and it is fairly easy to plumb in the fuel
> gauge.
> Steve B.
> San Jose, Kaleefohnia (USA)
> >
> > So, next week I plan to replace the vacuum lines in the UrQ
> > as a matter of
> > good measure.  I've been having a rough warmup with very
> > little power until
> > about 4k rpm, crappy idle, etc. so it's the reverse of a 4k
> > rpm cutout, but
> > at some point in warmup the car switches to running beautifully.  Just
> > wondering if anyone knows off hand how much of each line to
> > buy and cut to
> > length.
> >
> > On the poor warmup front, though, the coolant temp sensor at
> > the front of
> > the head measures 1561 ohms to ground when cold, hot, warm,
> > etc. so I'll be
> > ordering one of those too, I guess.  It's my understanding it
> > should be
> > over 1k cold and around 100 warm?
> >
> > I'll get some duty cycle readings upon replacement then too.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Nathan Engelbert
> > 83 UrQ 900453
> >
> >
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