[V8] ISV and Hood Closing

dsaad at icehouse.net dsaad at icehouse.net
Thu Jun 9 11:11:08 EDT 2005

On the ISV - it actually takes a pretty good ohm meter to measure accurately a
low resistance. Be sure to zero the meter and leads. More important is how it
works - which is not good in your case. A cleaning may help - remove the ISV,
hold the orifice up and fill the cavity with BRAKE CLEANER SPRAY.
Wash,rinse,repeat. If you have a small piece of wood or plastic, gently rock the
shutter back and forth - but be careful not to scratch or bend it.
If the cleaning does not help you are probably due for a new unit.

On the spring clip - that is not really supposed to come off. It is the same
clip for about any other 2-wire connector though so it is easy to find at a
salvage yard if you can not get a new one from the dealer or parts store. You
may have to buy a new connector, but just transfer the spring.


Quoting Speakoutprod at aol.com:

> 1) My ISV (Idle Stablization Valve) has not seemed to function 100% for
> years.  I measured its internal impendence with a digital voltmeter last
> night and
> got a reading of 8.7 Ohms, several Ohms higher than the spec in the book.
> Does this reading suggest I replace it?
> 2) My hood decided to stop latching correctly -- specifically, the left and
> right latches that have the spring-loaded posts.  I can adjust the tension
> on
> the cable with the set screw/block at the end of the cable (passenger's site
> of
> front of car) but depending on where I set it, it either lets the right post
> fit and lock or the left post fit and lock, but not both.  As there any
> suggestions as to how to adjust the cable so BOTH posts correctly seat and
> lock?
> 3) Lastly, when I removed the weird metal locking spring (that holds the
> connector to the ISV), it went flying and landed in the netherparts of the
> engine.
>  Anyone know where I can get a replacement spring and what it is called?
> Thanks,
> Brad Hartman
> 1990 V8
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