[Vwdiesel] My '89 keeps stalling? UPDATE. Oil Pump?

Val Christian val at swamps.roc.ny.us
Fri Oct 3 10:02:39 EDT 2003

I'd be more suspicious of the injection pump, and the possibility of
gettin air into the suction lines.  Do you have a clear plastic line running
from your fuel filter to the injection pump?  Do you see bubbles there?

If you have a restriction in the intake side, you will likely injest
air into the injector pump, instead of fuel.  Restrictions could be in
the fuel tank, or perhaps even more likely, the fuel filter.  If you haven't
changed the fuel filter, I would.  I would also fill it with clean diesel
fuel, prior to changing it.  And I'd read up on purging (bleeding) the
fuel system, as you may have to perform that process.

To summarize, check for air getting into the injection pump suction line.
Consider changing the fuel filter.  Write if you have more questions.

Val Christian

> Thanks again to all who offered suggestions about my stalling problem on my
> 89 Jetta 1.6 NA. I tried everything suggested with the exception of
> checking the pump timing. I actually have the gauge to do it but have not
> had time to set down and figure it out. Briefly again my problem was my car
> would start great but as soon as I would rev it up to drive off it would
> die and not start again for at least 10 minutes, this was in 60 degree
> weather. If I let it warm up a few minutes first it would be fine. As the
> temperature dropped recently (snow in NW PA yesterday) it got worse.  It
> starts great and runs for 2 or 3 seconds and dies even if I don't touch the
> throttle. When I try to start it again the starter free wheels. I thought
> it was because it could not overcome the added compression of the cylinders
> with the fuel in them and was disengaging from the flywheel. Eventually I
> got it to start but it ran as if on 2 cylinders for 4 or 5 minutes then it
> is as if the 3rd came to life, then it smooths out nicely and runs on all
> 4. From there it runs like a champ 75 mph down the interstate without
> missing a beat.   I have a magnetic heater on the oil pan so I plugged it
> in all day Wed. and wed. evening it started no problem and I got it to a
> local 1 man VW shop.  Without looking at it and going by my description he
> said it sounded like I was low on compression which was not what I wanted
> to hear. The engine has 12k miles on a fresh "rebuild". My question to that
> was that it does not use any oil between 3 k changes and does not smoke so
> I was hopeful after he looked it over would find something else.  I called
> him at the end of the day yesterday and he said he worked on it and
> believes my Oil pump is the problem.  He said he has only seen it once
> before but it looks like it is spiking a very high oil pressure after it
> starts and after 2 or 3 seconds of running the hydraulic lifters are
> actually not allowing the valves to close so it loses all compression and
> dies. And when you try to restart it is turning the engine over but with 0
> compression.  Eventually the lifters will bleed down allowing the cycle to
> start over.  When the oil gets warmed up enough things work ok? Since
> everything I have seen supports the idea that when the oil is warm it is ok
> it makes sense to me but I would like to know if anyone else has ever seen
> such a thing? I am not familiar with VW hydraulic lifters but really
> thought the oil made them absorb the shock but can't picture in my head how
> they would "grow" to keep the valves from closing?  FYI I am running
> Rotella T 40w in it with a Mann oil filter.  He can't get back on it until
> the first of the week so I thought in the meantime I would ask what you
> guys thought?
> Thanks much,
> Bart
> At 08:04 PM 8/17/2003 -0400, LBaird119 at aol.com wrote:
> >--
> >[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ]
> >   Sounds like the timing is way off.  It could be a bad injector or more but
> >it'd really be puffing out the white smoke at idle if one was THAT bad.  You
> >may have a bad ground where the negative cable bolts to the transmission.
> >The rotation of the engine causes a loss of current and the stop solenoid
> >closes.  It could explain the starter too.  Not highly likely but a
> >possibility.
> >I'd suspect fairly retarded timing as most likely.  If an injector were that
> >bad your glow plug will likely be missing the heating element prortion of it.
> >      Loren
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