[Vwdiesel] Engine parts everywhere! :-)
LBaird119 at aol.com
LBaird119 at aol.com
Sun Jun 6 11:27:33 EDT 2004
I was surprised at how good the rod bearings looked - no
perceptible sign of wear at all, although they are single layer, so it could
hard to spot. The crank bearings showed a bit of wear since I replaced them
about 30k kms ago, but I suspect just from seating in. The #3 thrust bearing
was down to copper on both sides, which I guess indicates the crank end
play was too loose?
My Rabbit's rod bearings were nearly like new with somewhere between
100k and 150k miles on it. At the end, one was bad from constantly losing
oil and it sucked air too long in a corner. There are sort of three layers
to them. First is a dull, very thin, soft gray. Then there's a more shiny
slilver with copper at the "oh crap" level.
Many to most of the thrust bearings I've seen showed copper. Too much
time sitting at lights with the clutch in? My Jetta had a REALLY stiff
pedal so that may have been part of why the thrust failed on it.
> I could not detect play in the int shaft, although it is stiff to turn... I
> suspected these bearings for years, but I guess a machine shop will have to
> pull them?
They are usually still tight even when they're shot. They tend to flake
and lose oil pressure. With a long drift you can drive them out. In is a
little trickier as is making/keeping them sized so the shaft will still turn.
> Injection pump had some axial play - I could move the shaft in &out maybe
> 1mm - this can't be good. The turbo bearing seemed tight &smooth.
IIRC the shaft does have some in/out play until the gear/pulley is
torqued down. Turbos last a LONG time and usually have a little
side to side but should have no end play.
> In all, it was a good morning of pulling things apart, but now I have a big
> mess to clean up... and I need to start searching for a machine shop to hot
> tank the block and replace the int shaft bearings, and rebuild the head for
> or at least do a valve grind &new guides, etc. I saw no signs of head gasket
> leakage, but it should be checked I guess. Do these shops normally measure
> the bores also, or should I be looking to borrow the tools?
Most shops should be able to measure the bores. Checking for head gasket
leaks entails staring at the gasket, looking for places in the metal ring,
show darkening or just a different look, indicating leakage.
You can r&r the valve guides yourself and save some money. They're
easy to do too. :) I've found the exhaust valves usually need replacing
due to wear on the stems. Of course disassembly takes a special spring
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