[Vwdiesel] Re: Oil in CV Boot

kevin.jack at primus.ca kevin.jack at primus.ca
Tue Jun 8 16:02:01 EDT 2004

Damn....that means I didnt have to change the final drive seal. I hope it 
goes on easily. 

I took it apart on Saturday, so Im having trouble remember that little seal 
in the flange. Ill check it out as soon as I arrive home. 

As for the methods of removing the CV driveshaft, I have been following 
bentley. I find the manual lacking in diagnostics. I didnt know which seal 
to change....so now Ill change both. 

Ill probably have to go to the dealer for parts. 

Sandy Cameron writes: 

> At 09:10 AM 07/06/04 -0400, you wrote:
>>Hi guys,  
>>Lately I had been noticing a hum coming for the front drivers side of my 
>>car. I was pretty sure that it was a cv joint, so I let it go for a few 
>>hundred kms. Yesterday I got the Bentley out and took it apart, and the 
>>inner cv boot was full of gear oil. It was not leaking so I never noticed.  
> Your flange seal is ok if there is no oil on the ground. 
> What has happened is inside the flange (take the axel off) you will find a
> rubber coated steel plug that has leaked or fallen out (or, perish the
> thought, someone changed the axel a while ago, and did not ensure the plug
> was in there) It covers the spline and circlip that the flange slides on to.
> When you have it open ensure the circlip is properly seated and in place. 
> Tranny oil can freely pass along the spline and into the CV if the plug is
> faulty. Not only is gear oil no good for CVs, you are loosing tranny oil as
> well, so don't forget to top it up, or better, drain it and replace with
> exactly 2 US quarts (2 Lites) poured in through the speedo cable connection.  
> I have a lot of info and som pix I can mail you of these things. Later
> today, possibly. 
> Special trick to get inner end of axel off without disturbing outer end.
> turn steering full left (for left axel)
> jack subframe or body to let wheel drop as far as it can (use jack stands)
> Jacking the engine slightly (use a 2x4 across the oil pan/ bell housing to
> distribute the pressure) This will provide a little more extension to the
> axel and it should slip out of the flange easily. 
> Special 12 pt. spline wrench bitt available at CTC in "red card" special
> tools section of auto parts. set of 4, you will use 3 of them on your volks.
> largest on head bolts, next smaller on starter/mount bolts, next on flange
> bolts, and I have not found a use for the smallest. 
> for removing inner bolts. Insert bitt in 1/2" socket and tape with
> electrical tape. install on long
> extension and tape,  remove wheel, now you can see all the bolts through the
> wheel well.
> Clean out the bolt cavities very well.
> Poke the bitt into the bolt head and give the extension one good whack with
> a hammer to wake up the thread lock cement. Bolts should come out easily if
> you cleaned the cavity properly. If you strip one out, use a small pipe
> wrench or gorrilla vise grips to loosen it.
> I've never had a problem if I cleaned them well first, but have stripped one
> or two I didn't clean out well enough. The plug can be had at a dealer. It
> is always supplied with a seal kit. More on doing seals later. if they are
> not leaking, DON'T DO THEM, They are a pig to redo on the car, almost easier
> to lift the engine/tranny out of the car to do.. 
> Don't try to re-use the old plug. 
> Sandy 

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