[Vwdiesel] fitting my rings

LBaird119 at aol.com LBaird119 at aol.com
Mon Sep 20 12:07:28 EDT 2004

Not sure how on a fresh "rebuild" with 25k miles the 
rings can be that worn?

  EASY!  Just from my experience vs what you see for your lack of a hone 
job!  No cross hatch, high ring wear.  The cross hatch holds oil to lube 
the rings.  No oil, metal to metal, high wear.  I had .054" end gap in <15K
  Most shops don't charge you to drop a straight edge on a head and 
check it.  It's easiest to do if it's already clean and cam is out so the 
valves are all closed.  Since your cylinder doesn't appear to have been 
honed it makes me wonder about the valves and guides.  :(
  Rings have many variations as to how they go in.  If there's a mark, it 
goes up.  If there's an inside bevel then it goes up (for compression to help 

expand the ring.  If there's an outer bevel or angle, the wide part goes down 

I believe (not positive but pretty sure).  If there's a step on the outer 
edge, it 
goes down.  No difference, then either way.
  You can make a trip to the wrecking yard and pick up a lower bracket for 
non A/C diesel as well as the crank and water pump pulleys I believe, and 
swap to non A/C setup.  Should be much more plentiful than WITH A/C. 
I'll take your A/C setup if you don't want it.  :-)
   Have you pushed a new ring into the cylinder to check how the end 
gap is yet?  Best way to do that is to keep an oil ring on.  Then you get 
a good, square location of the ring where the wear is usually higher.  Is 
your top ring chrome or cast like the second?  Some places will send 
the cheaper gas, cast rings when the diesels should really be using 
chromed top rings.

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