[Vwdiesel] leaking injection pump

brian gochnauer brian at gochnauer.net
Sat Sep 12 06:38:06 PDT 2009

 Brian <http://cid-88ad300fd607b1e9.profile.live.com/> is sharing a PDF file
from his Public<http://cid-88ad300fd607b1e9.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/.Public/Bosch%20VE%20Rebuild-bg.pdf?authkey=6TFBfR*74!g%24>folder
with you.
Bosch VE Rebuild
     *View File*<http://cid-88ad300fd607b1e9.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/.Public/Bosch%20VE%20Rebuild-bg.pdf?authkey=6TFBfR*74!g%24>
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I don't think Dave really want to reseal his pump but I though this might
interest the rest of you that are.

Brian (iowa)

On 9/11/09, Andrew .Libby <libbybapa at gmail.com> wrote:
> I've resealed quite a few pumps and can do it fairly easily in less than 2
> hours.  The seal kit usually now costs $25 plus a $15 main shaft seal.
> I would not recommend getting any pumps from dieselvw.com or emiata.com,
> etc, etc.  Those sites that all look alike are run by Pete Rothenbacher who
> has a horrible reputation on the web for supplying pumps that do not run
> and
> never giving people refunds.  Caveat emptor.  I would also mention that the
> rest of the parts on that site are Chinese knock-offs of which many are of
> very questionable quality.  I know of a couple people so far who have
> gotten
> the turbos to find out that they were junk.
> I would start by pulling the stop solenoid.  The main distributor o-ring
> can
> then be swapped by placing the pump in a vice with the shaft pointing at
> the
> floor and loosening the distributor head just far enough to pick the old
> o-ring out and stretch the new one over the head.  As a precaution I like
> to
> keep pressure on the plunger inside the pump using a longer bolt in the
> timing plug location and tighten it when I loosen the distributor head
> bolts
> and loosen it when I tighten them.  Once the head o-ring is swapped,
> replace
> the solenoid o-ring and install it.  There is a large o-ring around the big
> plug in the center of the distributor head that has a triangular shape to
> it.  That requires a modified socket.  I forget the size, but I used a
> dremel to enlarge a socket that was correct for the three faces but needed
> the points of the triangle enlarged.  That large center plug should be
> torqued to 70 ft. lbs.  The top seal requires the removal and replacement
> of
> the springs which is a pain, but accomplished easily enough with a couple
> of
> needle nose pliers.  Mark the lever to shaft orientation before removing
> it.  The accelerator lever shaft then gets pushed through the top when the
> top is pulled up.  There is an o-ring on the shaft.  The pressure regulator
> requires another modified socket.  Use a 10mm six point and round out 4 of
> the sides.  The rest of the seals are pretty easy.  There is an o-ring on
> the governor shaft and the max fuel screw.  Be sure they go back where they
> were (count turns or measure before hand).  The cold start lever has a
> large
> o-ring and a small one on the shaft accessible after the little c-clip is
> removes and the shaft pushed out.  The other cover opposite the cold start
> is a simple o-ring.
> As has been mentioned, don't use any used pumps that have been sitting open
> to the air for more than a couple of months. The seals may leak, but more
> often the vanes of the vane pump stick due to fuel drying on them, causing
> the pump to not run. Very common.  Furthermore, if the location has
> significant temperature swings, then moisture will accumulate inside the
> pump and rust it internally.  Any pump sitting open to the air for more
> than
> a couple of months is at best a rebuildable core.
> Andrew
> Andrew
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