[Vwdiesel] cold start shaft reseal in car Re: pump still leaks

Andrew .Libby libbybapa at gmail.com
Wed Sep 16 19:56:36 PDT 2009

Brian, the cold start side of the dynamic advance piston is quite different
and so without the lever in place your static timing setting will be off.
The lever could not be installed on the other side of the pump as the
rotation of the sprocket determines the movement of the dynamic timing
advance piston which in turn determines the which side of the pump the cold
start lever must be on.  There are other pump variations that accommodate
the cold start advance in different ways, tho, such as the peugot which has
an automatic advance that is governed by coolant temp.

On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 7:10 PM, <decker at toledotel.com> wrote:

> Hi Loren;
>    It might take a few choice words but one can remove and replace the cold
> start lever in the car. I did it on a 1.6 diesel in my 1981 Dasher while
> the
> pump was in the car. No moving of the pump or retiming. I did it in about
> an
> hour.  That was a couple of years and probably 30 to 40 thousand miles ago.
> It took a ninety degree screw driver a needle nose vice grips and a little
> bit of persistence. I did have an old pump and I stole the cover from the
> other side of the pump which is solid and did away with the cold start. I
> never used it anyway. The cold start lever is made to work on either side
> of
> the pump. Why we have to have it on the back side where it is a chore to
> get
> to I don't know. If I had wanted to reseal it would have just been a trip
> to
> town to get the two O rings for the shaft.
> Brian Decker
> Western Washington
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <LBaird119 at aol.com>
> To: <vwdiesel at vwfans.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2009 6:46 PM
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] pump still leaks
> > In a message dated 9/16/2009 9:32:36 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> > vwzoo at yahoo.com writes:
> >
> > > I am trying to do this on the cheap, but I am exploring different
> idea's,
> > > before I get into the work, or spend a lot more cash.
> > >
> >
> >   Very understandable.  Thing is, with the fuel nowadays, EVERY
> > seal on that pump will very likely start leaking in a few days to a
> > few months.  :-(  Replacing the cold start lever seals is easy as
> > long as you don't mind pulling the pump and re-timing it.  Problem
> > is that (in my personal experience anyway) it'll start leaking at the
> > other seals in a month or two.  Mine leaked out the throttle shaft
> > seal and distributor seal.
> >   It's not highly likely your "shelf" pumps are rusty but it IS possible.
> > It IS highly likely that they'll start leaking in a few days even if all
> > else IS fine with them.  They've sat too long, even if they were
> > hooked up and full, they'd likely leak.
> >  I'm cheap but a complete reseal was the only practical way to go
> > since I just couldn't have the pu constantly going down from pump
> > leaks.  I doubt you can either.
> >     Loren
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