[Vwdiesel] cold start shaft reseal in car Re: pump still leaks

decker at toledotel.com decker at toledotel.com
Wed Sep 16 20:45:48 PDT 2009

Hi Andrew;
    I'm not a Bosch pump expert and your statement might be true but in my case by the seat of my pants I couldn't notice any difference. It was a true 50 mpg car before and a true 50 mpg car after the removal of the cold start shaft. The Dasher station wagon has a 5 spd, an Audi exhaust manifold with a 50 mm opening and a 2 inch exhaust pipe from there with a 16 inch turbo style muffler. It is bored 1mm over but nothing else that would improve performance or mileage
   My cold start lever seals started leaking in my 1981 1.6 Dasher diesel wagon at least two years ago perhaps more and I don't remember how much I took out of the pump. I do know that I took out the cold start shaft and replaced the cover with a solid one from the other side of a dead pump. I might have installed something from that off side hole. I did that without loosening or moving the pump. The car started just like before and ran just like before. It doesn't idle as well cold and perhaps if one lived in very cold country one would want the cold start lever functional. The Dasher has a 5 speed from a Quantum turbo diesel and it loves it. It will run down the freeway at 70 with room to spare. I made a run to Portland OR yesterday and ran 155 miles mostly on the freeway at 65 to 70. It took 3 .1 gallons when I got home to Toledo WA. I never felt a difference in the engine when I took the cold start shaft out and it runs like a stripe now. Since I took the cold start shaft out besides many thousands of miles around here it has been to Arizona twice, Canada twice, Texas once, California probably 20 or 30 times and still gets 50 mpg unless I flog it into a headwind which knocks me down a few mpg. In a month I will be leaving on a trip with stops in Kentucky, Maryland, Indiana, Minnesota and home. You just don't need the cold start shaft in there.
Brian Decker
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Andrew .Libby 
  To: decker at toledotel.com 
  Cc: vwdiesel at vwfans.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2009 7:56 PM
  Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] cold start shaft reseal in car Re: pump still leaks

  Brian, the cold start side of the dynamic advance piston is quite different and so without the lever in place your static timing setting will be off.  The lever could not be installed on the other side of the pump as the rotation of the sprocket determines the movement of the dynamic timing advance piston which in turn determines the which side of the pump the cold start lever must be on.  There are other pump variations that accommodate the cold start advance in different ways, tho, such as the peugot which has an automatic advance that is governed by coolant temp.

  On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 7:10 PM, <decker at toledotel.com> wrote:

    Hi Loren;
       It might take a few choice words but one can remove and replace the cold
    start lever in the car. I did it on a 1.6 diesel in my 1981 Dasher while the
    pump was in the car. No moving of the pump or retiming. I did it in about an
    hour.  That was a couple of years and probably 30 to 40 thousand miles ago.
    It took a ninety degree screw driver a needle nose vice grips and a little
    bit of persistence. I did have an old pump and I stole the cover from the
    other side of the pump which is solid and did away with the cold start. I
    never used it anyway. The cold start lever is made to work on either side of
    the pump. Why we have to have it on the back side where it is a chore to get
    to I don't know. If I had wanted to reseal it would have just been a trip to
    town to get the two O rings for the shaft.
    Brian Decker
    Western Washington

    ----- Original Message -----
    From: <LBaird119 at aol.com>
    To: <vwdiesel at vwfans.com>
    Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2009 6:46 PM
    Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] pump still leaks

    > In a message dated 9/16/2009 9:32:36 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
    > vwzoo at yahoo.com writes:
    > > I am trying to do this on the cheap, but I am exploring different
    > > before I get into the work, or spend a lot more cash.
    > >
    >   Very understandable.  Thing is, with the fuel nowadays, EVERY
    > seal on that pump will very likely start leaking in a few days to a
    > few months.  :-(  Replacing the cold start lever seals is easy as
    > long as you don't mind pulling the pump and re-timing it.  Problem
    > is that (in my personal experience anyway) it'll start leaking at the
    > other seals in a month or two.  Mine leaked out the throttle shaft
    > seal and distributor seal.
    >   It's not highly likely your "shelf" pumps are rusty but it IS possible.
    > It IS highly likely that they'll start leaking in a few days even if all
    > else IS fine with them.  They've sat too long, even if they were
    > hooked up and full, they'd likely leak.
    >  I'm cheap but a complete reseal was the only practical way to go
    > since I just couldn't have the pu constantly going down from pump
    > leaks.  I doubt you can either.
    >     Loren
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