[Vwdiesel] 82 Rabbit diesel - injector pump lever is "sticky"

Andrew .Libby libbybapa at gmail.com
Sun Sep 20 11:32:50 PDT 2009

Have you re-installed the timing cover?  It's a really good idea to replace
the cover as it prevents objects from getting into the timing belt, causing
it to jump time and ruin the engine.  I've heard of many different
individuals ruining there engines from having various things get into the
timing belt including broken alt belts, bolts or nuts that vibrated loose,
rocks and even a plastic grocery bag that blew up into the engine bay!

If engine oil has been getting onto the timing belt it is especially
important to address the problem as it can degrade the belt causing it to
prematurely fail (again, ruining the motor) or cause the intermediate shaft
to slip (driven on flat side of belt) which in turn drives the oil pump.
Without the oil pump turning properly, complete engine destruction will
occur very quickly.

The various sources of oil leakage on the pulley side of the engine are the
valve cover, the cam seal, the intermediate shaft seal, the intermediate
shaft seal carrier o-ring, the crankshaft oil seal, the crankshaft seal
carrier gasket and the head gasket.  The head gasket is least likely so
don't be alarmed, but I mention it in order to be thorough.  Most likely is
either the valve cover gasket, one of the three shaft seals or the int shaft
seal carrier o-ring.  It is probably easiest to address all of them at the
same time along with a timing belt change and replacing the timing cover.
There is a later single piece rubber valve cover gasket that tends to seal a
whole lot better than the three piece cork/silicone version.  It requires
shoulderless valve cover studs instead of the stock ones with shoulders.
The complete kit of gasket and studs can be had for around $20.


On Sun, Sep 20, 2009 at 9:50 AM, Joe <joe at haasenpfeffer.com> wrote:

> I guess I didn't make that clear enough... No, lubing the cable has no
> effect.  The "sticking" is in the lever itself.  I'll try drowning the
> lever/springs in WD-40, working it for a day or two, and report back.
> Joe
> -----Original Message-----
> From: vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com] On
> Behalf Of brian gochnauer
> Sent: Sunday, September 20, 2009 12:45 PM
> To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] 82 Rabbit diesel - injector pump lever is "sticky"
> If a "gave the cable a generous shot of WD-40" improved the problem, then
> replacing the cable will probably elminate the problem.
> If you disconnect the cable from the pump does the lever return normal?
> BrianG
> On 9/20/09, Joe <joe at haasenpfeffer.com> wrote:
> >
> > I've got an 82 Rabbit diesel whose injector pump was replaced (by the
> > previous owner) in mid-2007 with a remanufactured pump from Parts Place
> > Inc.
> > Car is from Wisconsin, and was run on biodiesel as well as regular
> diesel.
> > I'm running it exclusively on diesel.  I've owned it for about 2 months
> now
> > and have put about 3K miles on it.. Gets 42 MPG at 70 MPH.  It's
> developed
> > a
> > "sticking" problem on the accelerator which I've determined is the pump
> > lever itself, not the cable.  Once the engine is warm, I can pop the hood
> > and grab the lever, increase the engine speed, and it will slowly (like
> > it's
> > gummed up) return to the idle position.  If I move it too far, the engine
> > will race and I have to forcably push the lever back to idle.  It will
> > return to idle by itself eventually, but I don't like to race the engine
> > that high.
> >
> > Now I suspect this has been an issue with the pump from the beginning, as
> > the previous owner had also purchased an accelerator cable about 6 months
> > later but never installed it.  I looked closely at it and it appears to
> be
> > the wrong cable (adjustment at the firewall, not at the pump like the
> > original).  However, I've adjusted the original cable and gave it a
> > generous
> > shot of WD-40... The cable moves quite freely.
> >
> > So is it possible that the return springs on the remanufactured pump are
> > orginal and somehow weakened?  I'm thinking about installing an
> additional
> > return spring bolted to the passenger fender, just for safety's sake as I
> > do
> > wish to drive this car frequently.  Or is this a symptom of a more
> serious
> > problem which will cause the pump to fail?  Indeed, am I causing more
> > damage
> > by using it?  Any input is appreciated.
> >
> > Joe
> >
> >
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> >
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