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Many thanks for your input. My wiring is 10AWG around copper and the fuses
holders look up to the task being color coded to 10AWG. Your point about series
vs parallel is a good one, cnat think when I have ever seen a series wiring in
a car except maybe directional flashers in the old days.

So the calculation is 260/13.6= 19.118 which explains why the 20Amp fuse works.
I may have to go to 25 Amps if the battery deteriorates because the voltage
will approach 12.  In fact by deduction, if the voltage drops to 13, I break
the 20amp barrier. With wipers, driving lights, heater going etc, that could
easily happen in winter.

Am I on the right track here.

Thanks Eric.  BTW I have enjoyed your postings on numerous subjects of late. 
Good entertainment!!

 --- forwarded message ---
b: Wire size and current capacity Fm: Eric Schumacher >
INTERNET:es61@prism.gatech.edu To: colin cohen 102621.2256 For your auto

The NEC (National Electrical Code) lists the minimums for safe electrical
wiring/fuses/circuit breakers, etc...

        They list MAXIMUM amperage for wires:
        14 AWG  15 Amps
        12 AWG  20 Amps
        10 AWG  25 Amps

These ratings are for THW insulation around Copper.  FYI, THW is Thermoplastic
High temperature Wet location insulation.  I suspect the wire purchased at the
auto parts store is equal to this insulation AT BEST.  Therefore, I highly
recommend following the NEC guidelines for wiring in your car.

A side note from personal experience - Even if your fuses and wiring are up to
the task, the fuse holders and connectors may not be.  I melted a fuse holder
on my 4kCSQ's 80/100 Watt bulbs.  Not a big deal except when it happens in a
so-so part of town when the wife and six month old are with you.

Watts = volts * amps           typical auto voltage = 13.6 Watts = Watts +
Watts (wired in parallel, NEVER wire in series on car) volts = current *

Eric Schumacher es61@prism.gatech.edu


To: [102621,2256]


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