# Fuses/Wiring

```Many thanks for your input. My wiring is 10AWG around copper and the fuses
vs parallel is a good one, cnat think when I have ever seen a series wiring in
a car except maybe directional flashers in the old days.

So the calculation is 260/13.6= 19.118 which explains why the 20Amp fuse works.
I may have to go to 25 Amps if the battery deteriorates because the voltage
will approach 12.  In fact by deduction, if the voltage drops to 13, I break
the 20amp barrier. With wipers, driving lights, heater going etc, that could
easily happen in winter.

Am I on the right track here.

Thanks Eric.  BTW I have enjoyed your postings on numerous subjects of late.
Good entertainment!!

--- forwarded message ---
b: Wire size and current capacity Fm: Eric Schumacher >
INTERNET:es61@prism.gatech.edu To: colin cohen 102621.2256 For your auto
wiring:

The NEC (National Electrical Code) lists the minimums for safe electrical
wiring/fuses/circuit breakers, etc...

They list MAXIMUM amperage for wires:
14 AWG  15 Amps
12 AWG  20 Amps
10 AWG  25 Amps

These ratings are for THW insulation around Copper.  FYI, THW is Thermoplastic
High temperature Wet location insulation.  I suspect the wire purchased at the
auto parts store is equal to this insulation AT BEST.  Therefore, I highly
recommend following the NEC guidelines for wiring in your car.

A side note from personal experience - Even if your fuses and wiring are up to
the task, the fuse holders and connectors may not be.  I melted a fuse holder
on my 4kCSQ's 80/100 Watt bulbs.  Not a big deal except when it happens in a
so-so part of town when the wife and six month old are with you.

Watts = volts * amps           typical auto voltage = 13.6 Watts = Watts +
Watts (wired in parallel, NEVER wire in series on car) volts = current *
resistance>

Eric Schumacher es61@prism.gatech.edu

Distribution:

To: [102621,2256]

cc: Quattro > INTERNET:QUATTRO@COIMBRA.ANS.NET

--- end of message ---

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