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Re: wheel bearing?
> >> When I corner in my 84 4kq to the left, there is a steady
> >> thump-thump-thump sound, whose rapidity is proportional to my speed.
> >> When I go straight or turn right, there is no unusual sound. This
> >> sounds like a wheel bearing about to go (right?) and it must be on the
> >> right side of the car where the cornering forces are highest (right?),
> >> but I can't tell if it's the front or the rear. I also am not sure if
> >> a wheel bearing makes a thump once per tire revolution vs. a steady
> >> rumble.
> >It's a CV joint, not a wheel bearing.
> >I forget which turn makes which side thump.
> Eeek, my 5kcstq does the same thing, sometimes, when turning to the
> right. I figured it was just the bearing going. Is it really the CV joint?
> How much $$$ am I looking at?
> Paul Luevano '94 CBR 600F2
> firstname.lastname@example.org '87 5KCSTQ
> Waltham, MA USA '86 5KCST
> ________"Man's purpose is to live, not to exist."-Jack London________
I would guess a CV joint too, probably the outer one on the suspect side
of the car. Probably one of the balls in the inner cage is hung up at
certain angles and gradually grinding the joint away. Because the CV
rotates with the shaft and the wheel, it will happen at the same point on
every revolution at a certain steering angle. (right?) How much? It
depends on whether you can do it yourself or have someone else replace
I should think you should be able to get the single CV for your car for
well under $100, but then you have to install it, which is not really a
difficult job if you work with care and you have the tools, including a
good floor jack, or a set of jackstands, a (rented) impact gun to remove
the outer hub nut (I think it's a 36mm nut on your car) and a long
breaker bar (in case the impact gun doesn't suffice), a 1/2" drive metric
socket set of high quality, a long-nose circlip pliers, a rubber mallet
or a block of wood and a hammer, some loctite, and a crimping tool to put
the metal clamps back on the joint. You might also need to rent a puller
to get the axle out of the hub carrier (luckily, I didn't, I just pulled
the strut away from the axle and lo!, it slid right out).
If you have the major hand tools and the jackstands, you can probably
rent the other stuff from a local tool-rental place for about 20 bucks.
The job should take about 2-4 hours working carefully, depending on your
mechanical proficiency and luck. If you decide to do it, think about
also replacing any locknuts you remove with new ones from an Audi dealer,
including the big driveshaft nut. A mechanic might or might not do this,
but knowing how hard you have to twist to get these removed sometimes, it
always seemed like a good idea to me.
The most intimidating part of the job, IMO, is removing the big
driveshaft nut (of course, that's the first step). It is tightened to
about 300 lbs-ft and makes you think you are hurting something before it
finally comes loose. After that, it's pretty straightforward. I did mine
using the instructions in the Haynes manual for my car and a Rent-a-Tool
place. Everything worked fine and it was a learning experience. Don't
know about the labor from a mechanic, though. Maybe you can scout around
for a good price (and a good mechanic).
BTW, regarding the hub nut: I once took one of our first used Audis that
was making a grumbling noise on the LF wheel to an "ASE Certified"
mechanic. He tightened the nut to about 10 lbs-ft and told me nothing was
wrong with the car (this is back when I knew nothing). Of course, it
didn't fix the problem, which began anew about 1/4 mile away. I bought
the manual for the car and learned how tight the nut is supposed to be
and why. I took my Craftsman and a 36mm socket and a piece of pipe
and did so, and went back to him (without the pipe, thank God) and asked
for a refund. He yelled and screamed that tightening the nut that much
would destroy the bearing. I politely informed him he was full of
Crisco, at which point he pulled rank by saying he had 15 years of
experience or something...Then I pulled out the book and explained to him
the design of the bearing. He was very surprised. It took him a full
five minutes to let it sink in. After a private consultation with another
mechanic, he gave me my money back and I learned something about your
everyday mechanic re: Audis.