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Shortened shift linkage and widened throttle, part deux
Hello, virtual club!
I couldn't recognise my own post, when I received it back from the list.
That ASCII art of mine was really screwed up big time, although it was perfect on
my screen. I have redrawn it and moved all the way to the left margin. Here it is:
O<- ARC ->/
O | O
\ |pp#2 /
__ \ o____/_ |<-L->| __________
^ \ | / \______________>[gear box]
R \|/ link ----------
Remove the throtstle body as an assy. Three allen (5mm-?) bolts there. Make sure
you get a new green paper gasket beforehand.
BTW, now would be a good time to clean it up of accumulated gunk. I use the brake
parts cleaner. Please work in the open air! The stuff is ether based and is HIGHLY
volatile and flamable. I guarantee a headache in 10 min of working indoors.
On the inside of the throttle disk itself, in the lower half of it, you'll find a
restrictor. It's a metal segment, shaped like a wedge, same dia. as the throttle
disk, about 10mm thick in its lowest part, and is attached to the throttle disk
with two 4mm screws. Remove the restrictor, cover the screw holes in the disk with
the same screws (you will have to find two 4mm nuts in order to do this) and enjoy
a quicker pedal responce.
I have no idea why Audi added this restrictor the first place. When you open up
the throttle this restrictor keeps the calibrated gap between the throttle and the
inner bore very narrow for quite some time, and only when the restrictor clears up
the "floor" of the bore, the gap starts to really open up.
Without the restrictor the gap openes immediately after you apply your foot to the
right pedal. I've had it done several months ago now and really do like the
difference it made.
in Tornado "arrest-me-officer" Red;
chipped to 20psi of boost,
205/55/ZR16 Dunlop SP8000 on
MOMO 4 point harness,
MOMO 350mm wheel,
cross drilled brakes,
shortened shift linkage