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Handling Woes 1985 ur-quattro
In message <199612161716.MAA22714@Summa4.COM> marriott@Summa4.COM writes:
> My car (2.2 10V) is seeping oil along the headgasket near the sparking
> plugs. Am I eligible for the nifty "lift the head without
> disconnecting anything except the t-belt" trick?
Should be. This is what we had to do:
a) Drain coolant.
(You're going to open head waterways, and we needed to disconnect
the top hose because the hydraulic/power steering pipes were
threaded through it.)
b) Drain oil.
c) Take off top hose.
d) Remove cover, slacken power steering/hydraulic pump, remove belt.
e) Remove pump and tie up well out of the way.
f) (ur-q, don't forget) Remove injector cooling fan and shroud.
g) Unbolt warmup regulator from block and tie up out of the way.
h) Set engine to TDC #1.
i) Slacken and remove timing belt.
j) Remove camshaft cover. We use long-life rubber gaskets. If you're
using cork, renew it.
k) Slacken camshaft bearing nuts until there is clearance under _all_
lobes. This may mean actually taking the nuts OFF at the back of
l) Slacken the exhaust mounting at the gearbox. Just enough for 3mm
m) Slacken the head bolts in the reverse of tightening order.
n) Remove the bolts, leaving the front and rear right bolts (as you
face the engine) in situ to locate the head and gasket.
Discard the removed bolts.
o) Using an engine hoist tied to the front bracket and with a rope
passed under the back of the head, lift the head 3mm.
p) Remove and discard the single bolt at the rear, and swing out the
q) Put in a new head bolt at the rear, remove the front one and discard,
and take out the gasket.
r) Slide in the new gasket and replace the front bolt (with a new one)
s) Remove the rear bolt, swing the gasket in, and replace the bolt.
On our gasket, Audi (actually Elring Dichtungswerke) had
thoughtfully provided a little tab between #1 and #2 cylinders.
It made swinging it about quite easy.
t) Screw the rest of the new head bolts in loosely.
u) Lower the head, give thanks to the Audi gods, and reassemble.
Note that the camshaft bearing covers are very low torque - make sure
you have a small or low-range torque wrench available. The head bolts
are 12-point (or triple square, or spline) and you _NEED_ the right
driver bit. Don't be tempted to try a large TORX in there - it will
appear to fit ...
When reassembling, it's a good idea to check that the camshaft cover
mounting studs are correctly tightened into the head.
Run through the fastenings before starting, checking you have tools to
fit. Daft things like several different Allen (hex) drivers being
Don't forget to replace the head bolts with new ones. Also, it's handy
to have someone to hold a set square for the final 2 x 90 degree
tightening turn. I suspect the 1 x 180 degree option is only available
on a bench. You might find a really heavy duty universal joint useful
for the back two bolts on the right - although your inlet manifold won't
be as intrusive as an ur-q's.
A prime cause of leaks at the block/head joint is reuse of old head
bolts. They're specifically designed and manufactured to stretch -
Allow at least thirty minutes after tightening the camshaft bearing
covers before spinning the engine. (Assuming you have hydraulic
(Oh - and don't forget to retighten the exhaust mounting!!!)
The one thing missing from the gasket we took out was a truck tyremark.
(firstname.lastname@example.org, despite what the bounces say. If I don't
reply, your message is probably still stuck on a Demon punt.)
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