[Author Prev][Author Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Author Index][Thread Index]

Door Lock: Thanks and more hints

Thanks to everyone for their help on my 200 TQW door lock failure. Al
Powell's post of Jan 1, 1997 and Christopher Ice' e-mail to Dan of April
23, 1994 were key, and the Bentley was required, particularly for the
detailed pictures of the lock assembly. The really crucial assistance
was from Dan, who tracked down the two posts when my attempts using the
archives failed.

Anyway, I got the parts Saturday and fixed it yesterday. I admit to
never having the door panel off before, so consider my additional hints
here as those of a complete newbie.

The parts guy knows the recommended items by heart:

893837287D  Carrier 
893837061B  Lock Cyl
N 0124111   Lockring 

The counterperson did give me an excellent tool suggestion, though, and
I immediately went to Home Depot and bought a $17 Channelock #904
lockring tool. You can set this thing up to either expand or contract
when you squeeze the handles, and it comes with six different tips in a
variety of sizes and angles. The silver colored straight tips made it a
snap to install (and remove - I'm a trial and error sort of guy) the
clip numerous times. 

Anyway, I got the parts Saturday and fixed it yesterday. I admit to
never having the door panel off before, so consider my additional hints
here as those of a complete newbie.

1) You have to check the Bentley carefully to realize the armrest screws
are allens, (4mm I think) not Phillips like the rest of the screws.

2) After I got the innards of the door loose from the door itself, I
turned the assembly parallel to the ground, resting on a couple of milk
crates with  the bottom still up against the door sill. It was then
pretty much out of the way for the work, you do not want to completely
disconnect all those hoses and wires!

2) If you forget to note the position of the lock cylinder as you remove
it, for reassembly the deep slot perpendicular to the cylinder goes
down, otherwise the lock will not work. 

3) A special thanks to Al for pointing out the need to index  the two
gears to properly align the alarm arming system. Unfortunately I have
entered the age of bi-focals. With the various angles of the door and
the reading magnification at the bottom of my glasses, I could not see
the index tooth on the alarm switch.

Finally I went to a drug store and got some $12.00 reading glasses at
twice my normal perscription. Those, with a mirror, did the trick. I
located the index tooth on the alarm, and marked it with a tiny dab of
red paint. Once in the right (straight down) position, I put some
masking tape over the nubbin of the gear axis which protrudes from the
switch case to keep it from spinning.

4) The little circular spring kept launching itself off the cylinder as
I tried to get the lock arm "carrier" on top of it. It turns out the
spring has a good side and a not so good  side.  If placed against the
cylinder correctly, the hooks will help pull the spring in place. Look
carefully at the little hooks at either end and you'll be able to figure
it out, 'cause I did.

5) The big "Du'oh". Before reassembling the door, once I had the lock
back together I wanted to test it. First I pulled the #19 fuse to
deactivate the alarm (it was Sunday morning, after all). The lock
activated the central locking, but then the pressure was released and
the locks all popped up! Had I cut a vacuum hose during disassembly? I
put the fuse back in and found the alarm would not arm. I ran through
the locking system diagnostics steps to no avail. I pictured myself
having failed and reporting back to the list for more help. Dejected, I
put the door innards backon, but not the trim panel, and closed the
door. Then I tried the lock- it went down, and held, and the alarm
Of course, you cannot lock the doors and arm the alarm with the door
open! So you cannot completely test your work without closing the door.

Cost summary:

Parts                   $28.00
Lock ring tool:      $17.00
Reading Glasses: $12.50
Total                   $57.50

Thats compared to the $250 estimate from the dealer, plus the next time
there is work to do behind those panels, I'll have even more savings.
Thats pretty much it. Again, thanks to all.

Tom F.
1990 200 TQW