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RE: Headlights, again???

So the bottom line is, I'm looking to upgrade the lighting on my
87.5 CGT.  The less changes I have to make to the look of the car
the better (I like the stock look) but I'm willing to weigh any option,
since this is a safety matter.
So any BTDT's.  What are the avenues open to me?  I suppose I
could keep the stock headlamp and just get a more powerful bulb,
which means changing some wiring to accommodate.  I could                     
Well, you really only have 3 options dealing with stock location.
Infinite options if you dont mind hanging lights on the front which you
said you do so I will mostly skip those.  Here goes, in order of "output"
	Oops, just thought of a 4th option.  SO here goes.

1) Relay conversion.  A must do for any of the next stages and a necesarry
precation to help protect light switch too.  BUt to really protect switch
you also need to relay "parking lights of all things" because they are the
first to burn up the switch usually.  Anyhow, in short, you get a relay
for the lows and one for the highs.  RElays cost about $3 each for 30amp.
I found some at Shucks made by Blazer that have "DUAL" outputs to go to
the lights so you dont have to splice in a Y in your wiring.  Makes it
easy.  Basically, old wire from switch turns on Relay.  Relay takes power
from Alternator or Battery with 12ga+ or 10ga if you go to battery.  Relay
and lights are both grounded with 12-10ga to chassis.  Then Power from
Relay goes to lighs Via, You guessed it, "12-10ga wire".  This will give
you like 10-15% more light just by giving the bulbs the true power they
are trying to draw through 30 feet of 16ga wire. :-)

2) Next step and not much harder at this point is to do a 9007 conversion.
The 9007 by a fluke of poor design has better oriented filiments for the
4kq/coupe reflector.  It also just happens to be a "slightly (10w)" more
powerful bulb.  To fit it knock off the bottom two tangs in your light
housing so it will fit or use a dremmel to groove the actual bulb base.
You also need to swith the ground wire and "I think" the yellow wire.  I
believe it is the white that stays where it is powering the low beams.
"Of course the brown&yellow wires are really powering the relays not the
light".  This makes for MUCH better lights.  I think you will find them to
be at least as good as the stock lighs on your Hyandai or whatever it was.
Beyond this you may be able to find highe wattage 9007 bulbs but probably
not.  BUT, YOu can get 9007 Bright Light Bulbs made by Wagner from Napa
for the same price as stock.  These use a Xenon gas and emit a whiter
light and I recommend them.

3) H4 Euro lights.  Look the same as stock ones.  Bolt right in.  Run the
wires.  I think low and high have to be swapped.  I also believe these
require matching corner markers but maybe not.  Great light.  Very good
but lack the long range power of the H1/H4 mentioned next.  BTW, this
setup is like $380 for a PAIR.  

4) H1/H4.  Gets rid of the parking light.  Grill stays un-touched.  Sweet
looking asthetics wise.  Even better behind the wheel at night. With
Relays and Killer bulbs will make road in front like Day Light.  I
recommed switching the H1 so you can bypass it if you want since with it
on you can barely use it since you get flashed from people like 1/2 mile
away or more on a long road.  THis is a sweet setup, VEry Expensive $300 a
side or more I think"  and Parking lights are internal or moved down to
bumper with blinkers or both.  

Uhh, If you need more light than this you need some Marshall or even
better some Hella or other HID 7" round driving lights in front.  About 6
of them in a triangular pattern on each side like the Audi Rally cars
should just about do the trick.  
	Oh, BTW, with the Euro lamps you have many bulb choices up to
180watt bulbs!  Not street legal though but with the lows it doesn't
matter since they wont shine in peoples eyes anyhow.  
	You may want to check out some pics of James Marriotts page for
ideas.  I did what he did initially and did 9007 with driving lights
behind the grille where you cant see them.  I'm VERY happy with them.  NOt
as good as my H4/H1 on other car (Not even close) but approaches the
straight H4's with stock bulbs.  I'd still take the H4's though.  
	Hope this helps.  L8R

	Todd Phenneger
	1984 4000s quattro / modified/ awaiting Turbo Transplant.
	1985 4000 quattro / Silver / Fixing it Up.
	1987 4000cs quattro / Saphire Metallic Blue/ Girlfriend's
	1996 A6q / Volcano / Dads Car
   *****1985 5kt / PARTING OUT!