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RE: Amp. v Voltage

A "stock" brand new 200Q (in 1989) could NOT handle the load (electrical) of
a morning in Phoenix (summer time) 20mile drive, (ask Jeffery or
Audi...........)he had to put in a higher rated voltage reg. and add another
wire to the battery.

You are right about not knowing the shape of the electrical system .....but
those cars had a built in problem from the factory, could not run in hot
areas without discharging the battery. I do agree that with  age it does not
get better...

As for the 110Amp alt. you can get a conversion to 150Amp with a 14.8
Voltage reg. (my offer).

We can debate this subject for a long time but the undisputed fact is that
those cars came with barely an adequate electrical system (as true with
other parts of the car, take the hyd. system for example). A higher rated
voltage regulator coupled with increased amps will help specifically if you
are running high power lights.

-----Original Message-----
From:	QSHIPQ@aol.com [mailto:QSHIPQ@aol.com]
Sent:	Monday, March 22, 1999 10:35 AM
To:	avi@cosmoslink.net
Cc:	quattro@coimbra.ans.net
Subject:	Re: Amp. v  Voltage

Avi writes:
>1. It is taken for granted that your electrical system is OK (right?)

A big "for granted" Avi.  The occurences I see really aren't do to a bad or
faulty alternator.  Bad batteries on occasion.  If you see good voltage at
your jump terminal, and 2 volt drop (even 1 volt drop) by the time you go to
the battery (and usually worse by the time you get to the A/C head), I argue
the alternator isn't the problem.  We are talking about cars coming up on
10years old or older.  Amazingly enough, a lot of alternators are the
tagged alts that I have done the R&R on.  Amazingly enough, a lot of
alternator R&R's last a year or so, and go again.  If an original alt lasted
8years in original form, the capacity is most likely not the problem.

If you have a voltage drop to the battery, the alternator will operate at
of it's capacity 100% of the time.  Putting a higher VR or higher output
won't change this, it might mask or delay the problem, but it doesn't change

Again, I advocate that you read Scott M. pages on this subject.  Avi what
offer can be a good idea.  My experience has been that the 90amp alts are
fine, the 110 amps are fine, I certainly question why one would dump serious
money into a 110 amp conversion for a whopping 15 amps (most 110 I've tested
go 100) of power.  You could do a lot better by addressing the electrical
system in the car.

My .02

Scott Justusson
Chicago IL
'87 5ktqwRS2 (90amp stocker w/33amp draw with euro highs on)
'84 Urq (90amp stock)
'87 4Runner turbo (45amp stock)