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RE: RS2 value?

the story here in nz is dictated primarily by the numbers of cars.  as nz
took 13 cars (as australia didn't want any, we got theirs), values have
suffered as a result.  new in nz, the rs2 was $175k new ($85k usd) and sold
out quickly at that price.  mine was $125k in 1997, and is now probably
worth $85k (2.5 years later) with 46k kms on the clock.

i'm dubious about the market value of the mtm kit.  i'm reasonably keen on
the audi brake upgrade kit personally, but would figure that i would kiss
the money goodbye...

i can't comment about the value relative to the mb ur-q as there is only 1
in the country which i have seen.  there are 3 rr ur-quattros, and i think
that in a years time my 1990 rr (96k kms) will be worth more than my 1995
rs2 (around $75k).

now, if you could get the rs2 motor, with the rr/3b low speed grunt, with
the 6-speed in the ur-quattro....

'95 rs2
'90 ur-q
'88 mb 2.3-16

-----Original Message-----
Date: Tue, 10 Aug 1999 18:43:18 +0300
From: "Jouko Haapanen" <joukoh@vtoy.fi>
Subject: RS2 value??

Anyone out there have an idea as to what kind of prices RS2's are trading
owners at nowadays?  I looked at and drove a car today where the owner
recently spent over USD 15 000.00 on MTM go-fast stuff and piles more on 19"
wheels, suspension bits, and some questionable aero bits like splitters on
the front lower corners of the bumpers.  The car goes like a bat out of hell
past 4000 rpm, before which it is not much of a goer.  The power is amazing,
with the tires losing traction on the 1-2 shift on a moist road...

It would be nice in my own garage, but financially would probably mean
selling the Urquattro, which is a sad thought to say the least.  FWIW this
is one of two genuine RS2's in the country.

1995 Audi RS2
140 000 km
black/grey leather/alcantara
19" wheels
400+hp from MTM mod engine

What a conundrum!

Jouko Haapanen
Pori, Finland


Date: Tue, 10 Aug 1999 12:00:37 -0400
From: Greg Amy <grega@pobox.com>
Subject: BIRA at LRP

Applications are now being accepted for membership in BIRA (Braking
Improvement Research Association). Members will be able to test our products
as they become available.

For more information, visit http://www.bira.org

I will be attending the Northeast Quattro Club event next weekend at Lime
Rock Park as an volunteer instructor, with the BIRA Series One brakes on my
1991 200q sedan. Series One uses 314mm Audi A8 rotors and the 1999 Porsche
Boxster monoblock aluminum brakes, and is designed to fit the 1992-1995
S-cars, as well as any car that has had their brakes updated to same. I will
be testing three different pad compounds (stock Porsche Boxster, Porterfield
R4S, and Carbotech Street-F) for suitability on the track.

If you have any questions, come find me. I'll be in a silver 1991 200q with
Borbet Type C wheels, CT plates 897-MRV (I think).

Greg Amy
Milford, CT


Date: Tue, 10 Aug 1999 09:12:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: ti@amb.org (Ti Kan)
Subject: Re: Duosound? 8-inch speakers...

Gerard writes:
> I looked into the Haynes
> manual and it mentions a "duosound" item taking a signal
> from the head unit. What is this thing?

See my web site for a pic of the Duo Sound (from a 5KT, fitted
to my 4000):


It's a little widget on the rear shelf of the car with two
headphone jacks, headphone clips, and a switch to turn off
the rear speakers for "headphone-only" listening.

- -Ti
96 A4 2.8 quattro
84 5000S 2.1 turbo
80 4000 2.0
- -- 
    ///  Ti Kan                Vorsprung durch Technik
   ///   AMB Research Laboratories, Sunnyvale, CA. USA
  ///    ti@amb.org
 //////  http://metalab.unc.edu/tkan/


Date: Tue, 10 Aug 1999 11:58:01 -0400
From: Richard Beels <beels@technologist.com>
Subject: Re: Tamper proof drain plug tool?

Sounds like a tamper-proof Torx.  Your telephone box on the outside of your 
house has the same bolt-head - although much smaller obviously.

I think they have them at Sears in the specialty auto-tools aisle.

At 10:46 AM 8/10/99 ,  A24k4x4@aol.com was inspired to say:
>Hi all,
>I'm sure this has come up before but... On a 95 90  V-6  5 speed trans, has
>star like drain plug with a tamper proof knob in the center of the plug.
>Where may I purchase the proper tool to remove such plug?

	88 90Q "Hannu" - K+N, new vac hoses, lubed U-Joint, still 0.0
	88 Golf GTi - PRO Rally


Date: Tue, 10 Aug 1999 11:57:56 -0400
From: Richard Beels <beels@technologist.com>
Subject: Re: to Ebay or not to Ebay

Offer them here first for your "low-ball" price - look after your own, 
scratch the back that's been scratching you, etc...  Then, offer the rest 
on eBay, making sure you set a reserve price that will cover you in case no 
one really bids on it.

At 09:44 AM 8/10/99 ,  Sachelle Babbar was inspired to say:
>I never really navigated my way through Ebay thoroughly and was wondering
>if it was a good idea to post up my parts (the turbo head, em, im, and
>turbo) and get a good price.

	88 90Q "Hannu" - K+N, new vac hoses, lubed U-Joint, still 0.0
	88 Golf GTi - PRO Rally


Date: Tue, 10 Aug 1999 12:23:28 -0400
From: Bryan Kamerer <kamerer@madriver.com>
Subject: V8 5-speed valuation

	I need some help - if anyone can provide it - for valuing a 1991 V8
5 spd
damaged in a crash.

	My insurance company is/sounds willing to value it to another
5-speed in
similar condition instead of an auto version, but the problem is finding a
transaction for one.

	Does anyone have/know of a sale of one of these this year,
through a dealer?


	Bryan Kamerer


Date: Tue, 10 Aug 1999 12:24:01 EDT
From: JShadzi@aol.com
Subject: Re: Dragrace tweaking of 5ktq. (long)

In a message dated 8/10/99 1:41:21 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
bernardl@acumenassociates.com writes:

<< First off, how consistent are you with your 0-60 times with the GTech?
 variations in your email could well be due to slight movement of the GTech
 during runs.
 From your web site, you are getting consistent 0-60 times when you don't
 drop the clutch, but they are slower than 7s.  Your clutch being hot may be
 a factor.
  The engine compartment temperature is at best a secondary factor to
 performance.  What is primary is the temperature (density) of the charge
 into the cylinders.  Have you any idea what the temperature of the air
 entering the manifold is?  Especially from run to run?  As your turbo heats
 up, you need a better way of cooling the air exiting the turbo -- you need
 better intercoolor.  I would put my money and effort into quantifying the
 air temperature after the intercooler, and reducing the intercooler exit
 temperature of the air as much as possible.>>>>>
    I agree, it is easy to draw causation from correlation.  There are many 
factors that affect the consecutive 0-60 run, engine compartment temp. being

one of them.  The first step would be to measure intake air temp after the 
intercooler to see if you are really loosing efficiency...
Javad Shadzi
88 80Q


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