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Re: project 4ktq update: Sent the motor out to the shop.
Marc A Swanson wrote:
> Any obvious mods that I am missing while I have everything apart?
Well, Marc, how much money do you have? :) Javad mentioned some things,
so I'll assume you are doing those (and all the usual, better rings,
good bearings, better valve seals, new lifters, et cetera).
If you are going to send parts to Jet for coating, you could go wild
and have all sorts of things coated. For instance, send them your
head and have the intake ports coated with a thermal barrier, the
combustion chamber, exhaust ports and valves cermet coated. Javad
already mentioned the pistons, which should get the moly stuff on
the skirts in addition to the ceramic on the face. Don't forget the
ceramic on the hot-side turbo housing, too.
Send Jet the cam and crank and have them do their super lubricity
coatings on all the bearing surfaces.
Make sure the machinists balance the crank/harmonic balancer with
the flywheel attached. Knife edge the crank to reduce windage.
Have them match the rod weights or, better yet, replace the rods
with some 4340 forged racing jobs. Get some lighter racing
pistons (JE may be selling pistons with the Jet Coat stuff already
done to them). Use lighter wrist pins, too.
Put ARP rod and main bolts on the bottom end, and studs on the head.
Reduce the inertia of the flywheel (aka "lightening the flywheel").
Removing a little bit of mass from near the rim will appreciably
reduce the spin up on the motor.
Grind out all the sharp edges inside the block and have it Magnafluxed.
Make a windage tray to keep oil off the crank and rod caps.
Stiffer valve springs, since the better balance should allow a
higher rev limit.
I can't believe that I can't think of anything more right now, but
that will give you a start.
Oh, oh, one more thing! Make sure to powdercoat the valve cover,
yellow would be nice.
The Murphy-Fahlgren Family Try to take over the world.
firstname.lastname@example.org Canton, MI, USA