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Report roll-up of BTDT on adding F strut brace to UrS4, (other models)
Thanks for the posts, I've put the various responses in edited form, plus
some other ideas pulled from elsewhere. I'm going to go with Option #1. I
include the other two options to show the other options that aren't proven
for UrS4, (and to benefit owners of other models that Option 2 and 3 are
Darin - another faq? not wonderfully tidy, but useful info.
QUATTROS UBER ALLES!
'92 UrS4, '85 4KQ
Objective: Add a front strut brace bar to early UrS4s
Options: 1. Buy later year Audi UrS parts and retrofit
2. Bernie's cost-effective fabricated bar design (difficult
to adapt to UrS4)
3. Adapt/find adjustable aftermarket bar
Option 1: Buy later year Audi parts and retrofit
(thanks to Bill Fuson)
PROS: Effective, Only Proven Fitment for UrS4!, OK cost esp. if from used
CON: not very aesthetic (the sparco bar on my 4KQ is a lot prettier ;-)
Use the standard Audi parts for late '92 and beyond.
All that is needed:
Low profile brake fluid reservoir
The kit from Audi also includes a new mount pad for the hood strut. It is
be moved from its current location to the left tower. I elected to keep the
old mount and not damage the paint on the tower. Also, the tower mounts
(plates) are welded on at the factory. They are also held in place with
three bolts. Based on advice from several Porsche enthusiasts who have
bars, I elected to have them bolted on, and not welded. Have checked the
bolts routinely since, not slippage or loosening.
Use your own judgment on the welding. I noted that the few aftermarket
options I could find also did not appear to weld the braces, they were just
attached with the bolts.
You will have to trim the sheet metal inside the hood to allow room for the
cap to the brake fluid reservoir, and the hood will not open all the way to
it's "extra extension" that is apparently used for engine removal. I
that if that was required I'd install the new hood strut mount.
As I recall, the total cost, including parts and labor (brake flush
was ~ $200 -- $250, but am not really certain as I bought the parts over
My urS4 (93-man. Mar. 92) has no stress bar; however, I just ordered one
from Dad's and hope to have it on within the next week. Cost $100 plus
$20 for a later model of the master brake cylinder reservoir which is
required to clear the stress bar.
Option 2: Bernie's Cost-effective, Fabricated Bar (adapt to S-car from
(Thanks to Bernie Benz)
Pros: cost-effective, proven fitment for some models other than UrS4
Con: Unlikely to work due to distinct lack of a straight shot across and
very tight/no wiggle room clearance with underside of hood and plastic cowl
I'm not familar with the S4 chassis, but if you have a straight shot between
the tops of your strut piston rods, as does the type 44 chassis, or just
stuff that can be moved with little trouble, my strut brace could be your
answer. Read my disclosures and the 200Q-20V list banter on the subject.
Chris Miller is putting the whole thing on his web site with pictures this
follow links to repair, then suspension,
or go direct:
more photos to be added.
chris miller, windham nh, firstname.lastname@example.org
ps: the later year's mounts did not (on a cursory glance a week ago) appear
to be welded in place.
Option 3: Adapt/Find Aftermarket Bar
Cons: same problem as #3, due to lack of straight shot across, this is
unlikely to work without a purpose-built aftermarket bar, and by definition
its highly unlikely for this market niche to be served due to later years'
Ur-S-cars having a factory bar.
Find an adjustable aftermarket bar with the right span & adjustability,
change the hydraulic reservoir to later low-top version
Bolt on the bar to shock tower tops, adjust to right length, just a bit of
Borrowed from 20V site, adapt this idea from the "90 guys"?
These cars have quite a bit of body flex. When the top of the strut towers
flex, it translates into a bit of slop in the suspension. Luckily, this can
be cured with the addition of a strut brace. Basically, it's just a bar that
has each end mounted to the top of the two strut towers. This prevents the
struts from flexing in relation to each other.
Several vendors offer a bar for the front, but most of them just resell the
same bar made by Jamex. This particular bar mounts by either welding or
bolting an included bracket to the top of the strut tower in the engine bay.
The bar itself is actually two pieces that bolt to the brackets, with a
turnbuckle between them to adjust the fit. The bar is shaped to avoid
interference with the battery <<not necessary for UrS4), but you may have to
relocate some pieces of the cruise control. You can contact Jamex directly
at (888) 40-JAMEX. The bar is $89 from them, usually cheaper than if you buy
from a third party. The P/N is 310000.
The Coupe probably benefits from a rear strut bar more than the sedan,
because the 90Q has the gas tank mounted between the towers, and the rear
seats don't fold down. There used to be a specific rear bar available, but
it has been discontinued. Some people have been able to mount a generic bar
in there, though. If you get one, make sure it is easily removable, because
otherwise it will limit your cargo carrying capacity (Coupe especially). The
Jamex part pictured below is P/N 311001.
RENO, NV 89523
4975 ENERGY WAY
TEL : + 1 775 857 4888
FAX : + 1 775 857 1635
Also SPARCO has a huge array of strut braces but no specs or fitment info on
their web site, www.sparco.it has about 90 different strut braces.
For 4KQ, SPARCO makes an excellent bar, bolts on straightforward, looks
great, very strong