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Re: 89 200tq wagon

I have had several experienced Audi
people (I'm definitely not a mechanic) check it out and all, including
one guy who's a mechanic at the local Audi dealer as his day job and who
moonlights on his own, can't seem to figure out the problem. 

....a mechanic at the local Audi dealer.....can't seem to figure out the 

Does this seem somehow all too strangely familiar?  Anyone get this besides 
me from "automotive professionals"?  I can't seem to understand how a dealer 
mech could claim "no knowledge" on this subject.  Is he working on Subaru's 
in there?  Just ranting.  Hope this earlier post helps.

Jim Accordino

Adrian....Your post indicates a RED flashing light. But you do not mention
an auditory warning sound. Perhaps your warning buzzer is inoperative. My
87 5ktq owner's manual sez on pg 40:

RED AUTOCHECK LIGHT/3 WARNING SOUNDS......."Do not continue to operate the
vehicle. The problem must be located and corrected immediately. Contact
your dealer or a qualified workshop."

"(Red) Warning light signals will only go out after the necessary repairs
have been completed."

"Until then, no yellow Auto-Check light can be displayed."

The manual sez on page 41, under BRAKE or (circle containing !): "...cause
may be three-fold:
1. Brake fluid level too low.
2. Not enough hydraulic fluid in reservoir.
3. Pressure for hydraulic brake too low.

It goes on to say that if both fluid levels are normal, the pressure in the
hydraulic brake booster may be too low.  (And)..."drive with extreme
caution ....to have the entire brake system checked."

It also sez that there may be problems stopping and steering.

This is followed by a WARNING box about brake pedal travel. If the travel
is excessive it may indicate one of the brake circuits has failed and in
that case to not drive the car and have it flatbedded to a dealer or repair
shop. If brake pedal travel is not impaired, the manual advises you drive
it with caution to the nearest repair shop. This contradicts/modifies the
books initial advice to not drive the car.

If fluid levels are good and the pedal travel is OK, I would try the bomb
test, involving steady pressure on the brake pedal after turning off the
engine. If the pedal sinks to an alarming level, I would suspect the master
cylinder or a ruptured brake line. If the pedal doesn't sink alarmingly, I
would repeatedly pump the brake pedal, counting each pump, and determine
how many pumps it took to cause a change in the feel of the end point of
pedal travel (hardening up of pedal.) A really good bomb gives about 30
pumps. For me, anything under ten pumps would make me think the bomb was
failing. I just replaced the bomb on my car for that reason. Here is Russ
Southerlin's "bomb failure" question list:
1) As soon as engine is turned off how many pumps are

    2) If #1 is greater than 0, then after the engine has been off about
10 minutes how many pumps are there?_________

    3) If #2 is greater than 0, then after the engine has been off
overnight how many pumps are there?_________

    4) Is the brake warning light coming on?______________

    5) If #4 is yes is it on right away after starting or after driving

    6) What type of hydraulic fluid do you use - Pentosin green cap, red
cap (synthetic), or other?____________

    7) Is the fluid nice and clean or is it dirty?______________

    8) What is the make and model of your car?_________________

    >E-mail me directly <russell.s.southerlin@lmco.com>
                   or call (303)932-1763 (home)
    >Russ Southerlin
    8894 S. Brentwood St.
    Littleton, CO 80128