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CV-joint boot saga :-(

	After getting all the major components (wheel, control-arm ,
	driveshaft) off in 15 minutes flat, I had to abandon my CV boot
	replacement project.  Too many other things came up during
	the weekend, and all sorts of things started to go wrong.  So
	it was with interest that I read about Jason's experiences.

On Oct 11, 10:48am, J_T_Douglas%mwcorp1@MWMGATE1.mitre.org wrote:

> Vw/Audi doesn't make the factory installed joints - they buy them from
> Meistersatz or ......? (sachs?)

	You're right : Meistersatz.

> Why?  I followed this abbreviated procedure (leaving the driveshaft on the
> and didn't remove any brake components.

	You're right, again: I never thought about it, and just repeated what
	I'd done when I did my wheel-bearing job.

> The circlip hold the joint.  On my '86, I had to hold it "open" while banging
> the joint off the driveshaft.  After the joint started to move
> I might add), the circlip stayed open by itself.

	This was where I met my Waterloo.  It's really quite clever, the
	way the joint is held in place, and I figured it out after a while.
	But try as I might, I could not get the joint to budge.  At that
	point, I decided I'd take the entire driveshaft off and have
	the local machine shop take the joint off for me if I couldn't do
	it with it off the car.

	Surprise, surprise: the inner joint is held by these bolts for which
	I could not locate a correct bit.  I got one bolt off quite easily
	with a hex bit, but not the others.  It was Sunday, and I had lots
	of other stuff to do, so I finally decided I was going to have the
	job done.  Boy, was I bummed :-(
> If you are careful, you won't need new bolts here.  If you do, or think you
> will, be advised that most of these bolts are of much higher strength than
> local auto parts places carry.  Fortunately, they are clearly marked (e.g.,
> "8.9").  You might want to plan ahead.  The nut and bolt for the torsion bar
> cost less than $2 US from a dealer, which is probably more than they should
> cost but is defintely worth it.  Think about your suspension coming apart at
> speed on the highway :-o

	You're absolutely right: I could only get 8.8 grade replacements, and
	I'm going to the dealer right away to get the correct ones.  I get
	heeby-jeebies thinking about that bolt shearing.  The guys in the
	shop were somewhat surprised at the 10.9 grade bolts, but strongly
	recommended that I stick with it.

>     12. Lower car and torque hub nut.
>     Hmm -- maybe not quite so straightforward ...!
> In all truth, it was an absolute bear.  But without mistakes, its a pretty
> reasonable job, one that a good backyard FWD mechanic should know.  The book
> shop time on an '86 5000 is less than 2 hours!
> Jason

	In retrospect, the easiest way to tackle this job is with the
	driveshaft off the car.  I was 5 bolts away from getting it off,
	and had to give up because I didn't have the correct bit.  Oh well ..