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Bleeding the clutch/brake fluid

There have been a few inquiries about how best to bleed the brake/clutch
systems in Audis and BMWs.  A while back I had a small leak in my Audi's
brake master.  This led the fluid level to gradually drop below the
feeder tube to the clutch slave at times.  The little air bubbles that got
in made the clutch act up every once in a while (clutch not returning all
the way back, not disengaging fully, etc.).   I think that the clutch slave
feeder tube on the fluid reservoir is way too high!

I did know that I had a small leak in the brake master (bottom of it was a
bit moist) - I finally changed it and bled the slave using the two-man
(person) pump and bleed technique - managed to make the problem worse (did
I mention that the slave feeder tube is too high?).  Used the one-person
vacuum job with little success - I did not have the advice of some one on
the net about using one of those rubber "cones" instead of the bleeding

Anyway, the clutch problems got worse and since I had had the
clutch master replaced a year ago (I still have brake fluid marks on a
couple of pairs of shoes), I figured it's got to be the slave.  Got one
from Shokan and wanted to change it myself - Bently said to "knock a pin
out" and it will come right out.  Knocking that pin out was not that easy -
used about 1.5 yards of extensions with something I picked up at Sears, I
forget the name of the tool, that is about 20cm long and has a cylindrical
end that just fit into the pin hole.  Worked this though the hole in the
fender well and used a big hammer to push the pin back (don't need to force
it out all the way).  Changed the slave, but in the process ruined the
hydraulic hose that attaches to it - I tried to loosen it too much.  You'll
have to loosen it just a bit, take the slave out, and then hold the hose
while turning the slave to remove it.  The hose was $62.00 - a dealer item.

The problem still persisted.  Bently does recommend using pressure
bleeding.  None of the mechanics around here (central NJ) had the device.
I paid a reputable shop about $50.00 to change the fluid - they just bled
it using the same two-person technique. Finally, I called this advertiser
in ROUNDEL about his one-man bleeding tool call ezie-bleed (sp?) - $33.00
shipping included.  This system consists of a tube that attaches to an air
source (e.g. spare tire, < 20 psi) a jar that holds about 2 pints of brake
fluid and a cap that attaches to your brake/clutch fluid reservoir.  Fill
the jar, put the cap on and attach to the air hose, start with the clutch
slave and then do the brakes.  Took about 30 minutes to do the whole job
and haven't had a problem with the clutch since.  I used a clear plastic
jar to collect the fluid coming out - when the color changed, it was time
to move onto the next side.

I bought the thing from Auto Experts Products, Co. in FL 1-800-795-6958 with
the usual disclaimers that I am not in any way affiliated with them.  I think
a husband and wife team run the business out of their home.  You will get a
whole bunch of different caps that can be used to do other makes of cars as

AT&T Bell Labs, Holmdel, NJ
'86 5000cs Quattro Turbo
'76 2002