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Which wax? (long)
Re: The "Which wax" thread...
Well, I fell for it...bought *2* cases of the Blue Coral "Touchless"
acrylic coating advertised on TV.
Tried it on the van hood [only] this week and learned a few things (like
"Geez...We gotta get this guy an Audi"). Perhaps you can benefit from my
The van's an '81 Ford with white and metallic brown paint that was pretty
badly weathered. It's an E-150, so it's just too big a project to go at it
regularly with "real" wax. Ergo, the "Touchless."
The bottles are pretty small at 8 oz (supposedly enough to do one entire
car in only 20 minutes; I figured vans'd take two...at least), and the
liquid is *really* liquid.
Despite the directions, I found it's a mistake to *pour* it on flat
surfaces and spread it out with the included sponge. It either runs when
you push into a puddle or thins out till you get a "rainbow" effect when
it dries. Far better to pour a small amount across the width of the
sponge and stroke it on lengthwise from there, overlapping about 1/3
stroke each time. When it starts to thin out, either squeeze out a little
more from the sponge or pour more on the sponge. The sponge should
squeak a bit, but don't press too hard or it'll thin-out too much.
It doesn't pay to do segments of a panel, even at "bend" lines; you'll
either see the "breaks" or get runs. Rather, start at the rear and stroke
rearward, then "pull" forward the length of the panel to get the best leveling
and most even coverage. Peer at the panel from several angles and
re-cover thin spots ASAP. Fluorescent lighting really helps you spot
I'd also suggest prepping the panels to be coated like you might for
paint. Remove any chrome trim or lettering and reinstall it when the
stuff dries. I don't have a clue how you'd ever keep the liquid from
piling-up and running around protrusions otherwise. I'd suggest a wet
terry towel and Palmolive Dishwashing soap for Sensitive Hands (the clear
liquid) as an initial prep, since its low in phosphates and removes an
amazing amount of oxidation while minimizing streaking. Plus, it rinses
Also, the directions warn against using "Touchless" on fiberglass. I dunno
about vinyl trim-tape, but I think I'll avoid it.
After the panel is thoroughly dry (did I mention I'd do only one panel at
a time?), go over it with a non-oily tack rag and try to do the coating
indoors (i.e. a garage). Otherwise, an unbelievable amount of stuff gets
stuck to the coating before it dries (takes about 30 minutes to an hour
to dry-to-touch, depending on humidity). After all, you don't want to
immortalize kitty fur and pollen in the automotive equivalent of amber. I
removed the hood and took it indoors (Man! That stuff smells, so be sure
you have good venner...vennil...er, ventilation).
If, despite all this, things go haywire, use some mineral spirits/stoddard's
solvent on a clean terry cloth and wipe in circular motions until you see
the surface start to "craze" (it'll look like varnish after paint remover
hits it). Immediately level the surface by wiping lengthwise in
overlapping strokes with the special sponge that comes with the kit (and
clean it with more mineral spirits, pressing dry on paper towels...otherwise
the sponge'll tear). The paint surface will look pretty bad after the
mineral spirits, resembling the "fisheyes" that come from painting over
oil-contaminated surfaces. If you're ready to give up at this point, a
regular cleaner wax will pretty well restore things to where they were.
If you decide to forge on, hit the panel with another dose of the
detergent, rinse thoroughly, and wait until it's all dry before starting
the coating process again.
That said, the results turned-out amazingly well, and may be just the
ticket for others who want to do something to help the appearance of
aged, chalked paint. The final appearance looks like a fresh clearcoat
and beads water beautifully. Heck, it even shines and has a deep, rich
color again (for those who want a preview on their own paint, moisten a
fingertip with spit and rub it into the paint. See how it looks while it's
wet? That's pretty much how it'll look if you coat it with "Touchless,"
only the acrylic will be glossier). I was just out looking at it in the
sunshine, and I don't see any swirl marks or rainbows, so I s'pose I'll try
another panel and another.... It doesn't hide any outright paint flaws,
though. One place where a bird dropping had been for some time is still
a little discolored, but better than before.
I don't know what'll happen if it gets a good, hard stone hit. 'Spose
it'll "craze" and "crackle" away from the impact site? Recoating is
possible, and old branch and cat-crampon scratches disappeared, so that's
good. I don't see any reason why one *couldn't* hit it with a clear-coat
approved polish or carnauba wax after its fully cured (still feels a
little "green" to me, so I'll wait a few months before trying the wax).
I agree with the other listmembers' postings: Use wax or conventional
polishes regularly to keep paint in good shape. But, if you've got a
beater with a lot of bad paint, this stuff may be worth a try. I'll keep
you advised as to how it's holding up (it may eventually yellow like old
floor wax on the white-painted panels after a Summer's sun hits it).
Anybody else tried this stuff? Lemme know how it worked before I go mad
and coat the rest of the truck.
BTW: On the bra issue, those little deflectors weren't designed for that
purpose per se, though that's a nice side effect. Their primary purpose
is to keep the rear edge of the bra from flapping at speed.
Good motoring to all,