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Re: '89 200TQ + Boge + bushings (long)
Steve Jagernauth wrote:
> Since you changed the inserts from the top, how did you
> replace the strut bearings??
I did those orange plastic bearings 3 yers ago, when I had to replace the torn rubber strut boots.
At that time I had the struts out of the car.
BTW, although the bearings are cheap ($12 ea), that was done in vain. They never go bad.
I had done it on my 2 Audis, and in both cases the old ones were perfect.
I would never do them again - it's unnecessary.
On a VW it's the whole other story. My wife's Fox consumes them routinely.
On a VW the bearings are combined with upper strut mounts.
> I assume you're referring
> to the strut bearing as 'strut mounts'.
No, see above.
> I have the Zelenda
> tool for doing the inserts which makes it easy.
Yep, thats the way to do it. I made my own, similar to the VAG tool.
1. Do_NOT_jack the car up!
2. Mark the position of the camber plates with a scribe BEFORE you undo those 2 locking nuts.
> I'm in the Easton, PA area and I believe you're in the Philly area.
> Any chance of borrowing/renting/buying your fabricated socket
> for the rear shock nut?
I don't rent or sell the special tools, that I ocassionaly fabricate. But you are welcome to
borrow anything, under the condition that I get it back as soon as you are done with it.
You are ways up north from me. If you ever come down to Philly, just drop by and get the tool.
> I guess I can get the local machine shop to
> cut the nut down to 18mm.
Yep. Just have them shave 0.5mm (0.020") off each of 6 sides.
> What nuts are they?
They are made out of a pretty hard steel. The top portion of the tread is jammed into ellips.
The first one walked on me when I tried to take all 0.5mm in a single cut (you know, it's a nut,
does not have to be pretty.)
Don't do it on a nylon insert lock nut, you'll cut the casing open and the insert will fall out.
> Drilling the holes for the sleeves sound easy using a regular drill.
> What did you use to make the actual sleeves?
Regular steel. I used the first round stock, that I stumbled upon on the racks in the machine shop,
that had the closest O.D. and I.D. to what I was looking for (I think it was 5/8" O.D. by 1/2" I.D.).
> Did I miss anything as far as modifications and special tools needed
> and are the rears doable in a weekend? I've done rears before and with
> a machine shop compressing the springs, only took an hour or so per side.
Also Steinbru@VNET.IBM.COM wrote:
> I am keen to follow your tracks. Let me see if I have this straight
> for my '86 5ktq:
> 1) order a pair of Boge TurboGas 32115F's
> 2) enlarge the shock top mounting hole by 2mm to fit the new stems
> 3) fabricate two metal sleeves to take up extra length on threaded end
> 4) hack two 12x1.5mm top mounting nuts to take an 18mm socket
Gary, you forgot :
5) enlarge the top metal washer (under the top mount) mounting hole by 2mm to fit the new stems.
> I am a EE, but don't do pcb layout and don't use Tango, I'll check
> around, but we mostly have proprietary stuff. What other file formats
> do you have, or can you convert a print to some image?
None. I am too lazy to use my full blown AutoCAD-12, when I can get away with using the
Top Mechanical Layer in Tango with almost the same results (for my perposes anyway).
> If resolution
> permits, you could fax to 914-435-1858. I'd be glad to post it on my
> page for a while as a file that listers could d/l.
I'll fax it to you Monday AM.
> I'd need the details of the metal sleeves also, or could you mail one of
> the short ones and how much longer it needed to be?
See the fax.
> Do the Boge's you ordered come with any spacers at all?
Yes, but they were the wrong ones, + you need to have 4 spacers, 2 per side.
You'll see it in the drawing. Just fabricate the sleeves per my word, you'll see what I meant
when you have the old and new shocks layng side by side on the bench.
> How large a window did you cut
> into the 18mm socket and was it standard or deep? Sounds like a tool I
> should make and keep in my collection.
It's a 3/8" drive deep 18mm socket.
It's O.D. is 24.44 mm. The remaining wall (after the window had been ground in) is 10.85mm.
If you stand the socket with the square hole up, the window starts 18.33mm from the bottom and is 32.34mm
the total length of the socket is 64.55mm.
You don't have to be this_accurate, I am just reading my $200 digital Mitutoyo caliper.
I ground the socket by eyeballing it (±1 kilometer as we used to say in the Old Country).:-)
> I was hesitating over replacing the bushings, but after your description
> I am going ahead with it. I have access to a 12 ton press, and while
> everything is up in the air, your description makes it seem a shame not
> to go for the whole enchilada.
Yep. You're absolutely right here.
Just don't remove the shock_AND_the lower control arm simultaneously. The whole assy will fall out on you.
> Would you be willing to lend me the adapters you made for
> pressing the bushings?
Sure. You pay the shipping both ways.