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Re: Re, Re, my first question
I don't know if this will help, but it sure can't hurt! First, the
suggestion you had from Autosports in Zeeland to check the over
pressure switch wouldn't work. That switch controls the pressure
build-up in the system - when the pressure gets high the switch
closes, which cycles the fan on to force air through the condensor
thus lowering the A/C system pressure.
There is a switch that controls (I think) the compressor clutch
engagement. Its located underneath the black plenum covering in front
of the passenger side, below the windshield. When my friend (who did
my A/C work on both my '86 and '88 5000s) charged up my system, he had
to short the switch in order to ensure that the clutch would engage
while charging. Apparently, he said the switch controls the clutch in
the event that the system loses freon. If there isn't and freon in
the system, the switch will prevent the clutch from engaging,
preventing the compressor from burning itself out. It could be that
this switch is out. I don't remember exactly where it is, but it had
two contacts and we would pull the connector off and short the
connector with a paper clip. If you were to do the same thing, the
clutch should engage. Assuming your system is fully charged, then I
would think that this switch is faulty.
Its worth a shot.......HTH
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Subject: Re, Re, my first question
Author: jimbo <email@example.com> at !INTERNET
Date: 6/30/97 11:12 PM
Phil and Judy Rose suggested I check the four function temperature
switch on the underside of the radiator hose housing as a fix for my 86
5000 air conditioner.
As far as the temperature gauge malfunction, Phil/Judy were 100%
correct. When I peeled back the rubber it was a mess. Apparently
coolant has been seeping through the switch for awhile. It wasn blue,
green yuck inside and three of the four wires were broken, coroded off.
Shorting two wires caused the gauge to move. Shorting any all of the
others had no effect on my compressor though. If I want my gauge to
start working, I'll replace it, but I probalby won't, especially at $88.
A suggestion from Autosports in Zeeland, Michigan, was to check the
overpressure switch located on the condensor/condenser? (the thing in
front of the radiator by the drying thing.) (how's my terminology?)
Disconnecting it and jumpering had no effect. I found another connector
in the same area and disconnected it. Viola, the compressor started to
run. Reconnecting it had no affect, so I stopped the engine and
restarted and tried the air again. No luck, and disconnecting the same
connector had no affect. By the way it was the connection to the
outside temp sensor which, per the diags, reads correctly. The diags
also tell me the control head is fine with a 00 reading.
Autosport told me pin 8 of the control head went through the pressure
switch to relay 11. He wasn't sure, but it might have gone through
something else. He also mentioned a relay on the carrier under the
dash. Haven't checked that yet. Heck of a nice guy, spent a 1/2 hour
with me. I might even be prompted to buy something from him out of
Now that I know several things that it isn't, what if I connected a wire
directly from pin 8 to the control side of relay 11? Anybody with a
good schematic confirm this for me? I didn't re post my original, but
if this relay is manually closed (by pinky) (my test relay has no
cover), the compressor works fine and the car gets cool.
I was also thinking of runing wires from the relay contact inside to a
switch and turning it on. Only problem is I don't know if the
compressor will cycle or it is depending on this relay to do the
cycling. I could do the cycling myself, but I am sure to get
distracted, leave it on too long and blow up the compressor.
Anyone with any other suggestions? I could really use the air this
holiday weekend as I have to take a 7 hour trip.