> When the engine is cold you should be able to disconnect the hoses and act-
> ually see through the auxiliary air regulator. When the engine is warm the
> regulator should be blocked. Another test you can perform is to pinch off
> one of the hoses to the AAR to see if air is flowing through there when the
> engine is warm ... if so the RPMS would drop immediately after pinching off
> the hose.
Steven, is this AAR as you are calling it the same thing others are calling the
idle stabilizer valve? Or is it what others are calling the warm up valve?
I'm sorry for the ignorance, but you introduced a new part into my Audi
vocabulary, and I don't know where to find it!!! Once I do, I'll sure check it
> In response to your other message, if you are truly turning the idle adjust-
> ment screw ... mounted on the throttle body, centered on top of the TB, on
> the inlet side of the TB ... you should be able to remove the screw. The
> rubber seal may have cooked itself to the threads however. Air is NOT sup-
> posed to leak past this screw!
The screw that I am turning is housed in about a one inch long cylindrical tube
that protrudes under the accelerator linkage, which is located about a foot and
a half left of the distributor, and about the same distance from the
windshield. The screw is inset about a quarter inch from the end of the
tube. Now, I've seen this same looking tube on my TQ, and it is up near the
left headlight on that. The tubes look EXACTLY alike, but are located in
different areas, due I'd guess to the fact that the '87 has a Turbo and the '84
> The last suggestion is one that I don't have a lot of info on. It is my re-
> collection that the only basis to the unintended acceleration claim was that
> the operator error was exacerbated by wear on some part in the FI system that
> caused an unusually high idle.
About four years ago, this same car developed what I figured was the "sudden
acceleration" problem. Every once in a while, didn't matter how warm the car
was, but now and then the car would just jump up to 4,000 RPM's for no apparent
reason. After a few minutes, the RPM's would drop back to where they belonged,
and every thing was just dandy. To fix the problem, I replaced the idle
stabilization valve (cylindrical looking job that hooks up to the PCV T-hose.)
That didn't do anything, so I replaced a relay in the bank under the steering
wheel, and that fixed the problem. That problem is different from this one, I
think, because this problem is temperature dependent whereas the other problem
was just a "whenever the car felt like it" type of deal. Also, RPM's now are
only 1,800 whereas before they were 4,000.
87 5000CS TQ