[Author Prev][Author Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Author Index][Thread Index] Re(2): 83 UrQ no start
(Dan Bocek replies to Bob DAmato) > > I am able to pop start it no prob.. and when its having an 'episode' I > > can put it in gear ,and roll it a little (VERY little) and try again, and > > usually the starter will kick in. (not enough data to verify this, but > > twice that seemed to be the case.) > > Sounds like you have a dead spot on your starter motor armature. Rolling > the car and having it work is the giveaway. Happened to me on another > car I used to own. Time to rebuild that starter! ... guess I'm missing a little something here ... how does rolling the car in gear do anything to move the starter to another bit of the armature? The only thing I could see would be if the starter engagement mechanism was sticking somehow trying to engage the flywheel ... it may be true that you need a new starter, but it may also be true that something else will get ya going, something cheaper ... Side note - It appears that most replacement starters come equipped for ring lugs, while the solenoid wire on both '82/83 qtcs I've seen are set up for a spade lugs. It was easy enough to rig up an adapter, but I thought I'd mention it here FYI ... > > P.S. I believe it has been suggested to you that the problem could lie > with the ignition switch not working. This is not the problem. I had the > switch die on me last year 300 miles away from home. After a flatbed to > the hotel (wouldn't kick start because when the switch goes, you don't get > power to *ANY* of the necessary subsystems the car needs to run) and a > taxi ride to Radio Shaft, I rigged up a McGyver hack (using only a swiss > army knife and duct tape (I'm serious!)) to bypass the ignition switch all > together with a series of three external toggle switches. Switch one to > turn on the ignition circuit, switch two to activate the load reduction > relay, and switch three to activate the starter. Worked great, 'cept it > felt like I was starting an airplane every time needed to toggle all those > switches... 3-2-1 contact!!!! Varooooommmmm......... > Sheesh Dan, this sounds better than the original! Why'd ya change it back? I'm gonna rig something like that up on my car this evening ;-) ... there are separate contacts on the switch for the start vs. the on posi- tion. I think that over time the start position switch builds up enough resistance to the point where it can no longer supply the pull-in current of the solenoid. You should be able to tell if the switch is basically functional in the START position by listening for the "hot-start" relay after holding the switch in start for a few seconds. If you are stuck with a car that has a bad ign switch, it turns out that the switch module is fairly easy to remove from the ign lock. Once removed, it is *really* easy to disassemble the thing. You might be able to cobble the thing to- gether with the bits that you've got ... cleaning contacts and such. Steve Buchholz s_buchho@kla.com San Jose, CA (USA)
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