[Author Prev][Author Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Author Index][Thread Index]
A "diffrent" way to aim your lights...............RE: Lighting questions
Another take on "aiming the lights"
1. Do one light at a time
2. You can block the light with a piece of cardboard, nothing fancy is
3. Instead of your garage wall, or any other wall, use a dark straight road
(flat), the advantages are (as oppose to the wall method) true results,
meaning, what you see, is at you get...
4.The same method can be used for driving lights and fog lights
5. Adjust the high beam to see as far as possible, avoid the "aircraft
search light syndrome", right side should angle to the right, (unless you
live in another country, left side)
6. Adjust the low beams as best you can see, without blinding others,
7. If possible have a full tank of gas and a "person" sitting in the front
8. Remember that if you have weight or passengers, it is going to LIFT your
lights, you might get "flashed" so take that in account while adjusting your
9. do it a few times to get a "feel" of where the lights work best and you
are not offending others
From: firstname.lastname@example.org [mailto:email@example.com]
On Behalf Of scott miller
Sent: Thursday, August 06, 1998 4:32 PM
Subject: Re: Lighting questions
>"quick and dirty" headlight aiming
Cover one light with something heat resistant, adjust the top of the
beam on the other by shining it on a wall, garage door, etc. My 80watt
low-beams are pretty much level, no complaints from oncoming traffic.
DOT lights might recieve some complaints at level.
>2.) Does anyone think that a conversion to relays and upgraded wiring
>the trouble with stock (9004) or mildly upgraded (9007) bulbs? If I'm
>going to see some noticeable improvement, I'm going to just hold off on
>doing this until I get the Euro (H1/H4) lights.
If it doesn't help, you'll need the relays anyway for the eurolights. I
highly recommend the eurolights for any real improvement, sometimes
brighter is worse without better focus. I'm confident of my stock
wiring, it's the stalk switch that's the weak point. It gets pretty
warm carrying 440+ watts, so I'd say I'm losing power there, and I'm in
danger of frying an expensive switch. I'm installing relays under the
dash to feed the stock wiring. I may lose a couple volts by not going
right from the alternator, but I really don't need any more light (or
any more wiring).
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com