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Re: Re:Warm air intake?

   >I just received my new K&N air filter yesterday (THanks Graydon, fits
   >like a glove...!)  I installed it on the 90 20VQ, and wondered a couple
   >of things...
   >1)  Will this thing really help boost hp a bit?? I hear its supposed to,

   Don't know. Not shure. I've had K&N for a year. I'll be rippin it out just
   to see if the filter-poor allegations are found, or not. Just be doing to
   wipe behind filter with white rag to see if there is layer of dirt there.
   Any suggestions on this?

   But I've noticed engine sounds different after K&N and 2.2 inline 5 non-T
   pulls a little bit more willingly at 4k-5k rev range. No help after about
   5300revs. Guess I need that 3.5inch stainless exhaust system. I bought the
   mid-resonator from the dealer and I think it's got the life-time warranty.
   Whose life-time? I don't know.

I suspect you'll get *MUCH* better top-end improvement by going to the (a)
Schrick cam . . .

I noticed a slight but noticeable improvement of my top-end (pre-Schrick)
when I installed the K&N. It didn't rev any higher, but did rev just a
little bit easier.

   >2) The airbox design on the car is pretty crappy, and I would like to
   >redo it. But I notice it has a warm air intake assumable for winter
   >driving. If I redesign the box, and eliminate this warm air from the
   >manifold, will I regret it? What would happen?

   I've been wondurin that meself for a while. Everytime I have the intake
   apart, I've noticed the valve closed to fresh air and directed to warm
   crank air intake. Even in nice sunny 70 degree weather. Izzat normal?

   Am I never getting any fresh cool spring air? The cooler the intake charge,
   the more horsies I can get outta it . . .

Dunno the details of your money-sink. It you defeat it, you will probably
encounter winter driving problems. I would suspect (based on experience
with other cars) mostly a "warm up" period problem, probably run fine once
engine is thoroughly warmed up.

In nice sunny 70 degree spring weather, I would imagine the valve would
initially be closed, but should open up fairly quickly. When fully warm,
valve should be fully open for coolest possible air. (Again, based on
hypothesis and other engines from past lives...)