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RE: Steering Column Switch

From: 	quattro-digest[SMTP:owner-quattro-digest@coimbra.ans.net]
Sent: 	Thursday, October 23, 1997 5:03 PM
To: 	quattro-digest@coimbra.ans.net
Subject: 	quattro-digest V4 #1257

This is indeed a weak link in the car.  Mine failed the same way causing highly irritating night time driving with the lights stuck on high beam.  

For $130 Autoparts Foreign will sell you an OEM unit that is supposedly improved over the original design.  I can't confirm that, although mine hasn't broken yet, but it is substantially cheaper than dealer's asking price of ~$300.  Autoparts Foreign is in NH 1-603-382-1643.  They are an excellent source for parts at very reasonable prices.  They don't have everything, but its well worth the call!


Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 14:23:37 -0700
From: russ southerlin <russell.s.southerlin@ast.lmco.com>
Subject: Steering Column Switch

Welcome to the list!!!!!
You wrote:
>My turn signal/high beam stalk flops around aimlessly fore and aft,
therefore, the brights are always on unless I manually hold the stalk
back halfway, which is very inconvienient.

>Looking for advice:  Any cheap fixes without replacing the whole
steering column switch assembly?  If not, where can I get one cheaper
than from Audi?

A common problem on the 5K's. Mine has been like that for almost a year
now. I haven't got into it to see exactly what the cause is. 

A cheap fix: A carefully engineered wad of paper shoved in front of the
stalk will hold it back. If you design it properly (match books work
well) you can even adjust it so that the brights stay on with a slight
tug on the stalk.

I think someone at Audi screwed up when they designed this mechanism
with a failure mode like this.

87 5KTQ


Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 13:29:29 -0700
From: steveb@falcon.kla-tencor.com (Steven Buchholz)
Subject: Re: to audi or not to audi

Remember that you are talking about buying a brand new car ... most of 
those people who are doing major work are doing this on cars that are 
10-15 years old!  I own 5 Audis at the current time, with a combined 
age of 69 model years!

Let me give you my impression about Audi reliability.  I am convinced 
that the running gear that Audi builds is quite robust and can easily 
run 200K miles without even needing a clutch replacement (my "newest" 
Audi is an '85 4kQ with 204,000 miles that I got for cheap because the 
original clutch failed).  Audi's weakess in the '80s was that it 
didn't do nearly as good a job on robustness for the bells and whis-
tles (I guess the steering rack/bomb on the 5ks don't quite fit here).  
In any event, IMO an older Audi without the fancy gizmos is likely to 
last forever with proper maintenance.  I have heard that newer Audis 
are better in the bells and whistles department, but I cannot speak 
from experience.  

I could also go into my opinions on the appliances, but it is probably 
best not to.  I think that if you bought a new Audi and observed the 
maintenance schedule you probably would be able to "put gas in and 
forget it" ...

Steve Buchholz
San Jose, CA (USA)
with 69 model years' worth of Audis ...


Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 13:33:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Orin Eman <orin@WOLFENET.com>
Subject: Re: Audi content (but only to the extent...

> Yesterday, I was served a (small claims court) subpoena, whereby she's
> seeking $5000 compensation, claiming that because of a change in 
> employment status, she's no longer able to afford the ongoing medical
> treatment required due to the agony I've inflicted upon her.  

Translation:  she's broke and is trying anything for money.

> I've talked with my State Farm rep, who assures me that they'll have a
> legal eagle in court with me, but -- should the plaintiff prevail -- I eat
> the cost, not the insurance company.  

Isn't it possible to move it out of small claims?  (Standard method
large companies use to make it too expensive to pursue...)
I'd guess she doesn't have much of a case, or she would have a lawyer
representing her and it wouldn't be in small claims.

> Foremost on my mind: why this suit isn't between the plaintiff and the
>                      insurance company...  

Good question.  You'd better talk to a lawyer.



Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 16:52:10 -0700
From: fred smith <smitty@pcrealm.net>
Subject: Re: Jumper posts for urq?

Anton,There isn't one,but I installed one on my Urq '83.I used one from
the 5000,make a little plate to fasten it to,and run a lead to the 
alternator or the starter.Mine is mounted to the screws that secure the 
coolant tank and has a captive snap cover.It also serves as a place for
12v to power driving lights etc.


Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 21:16:30 GMT
From: quk@isham-research.demon.co.uk (Phil Payne)
Subject: A Bear of a story, and looking for a good Denver body shop

In message <199710231054.KAA00638@localhost.localdomain> Bob Cotton writes:

> - Bob
> '97 A4QM Heavily scratched and bear resistant.

What happened to the guy with the turkey problem?

- -- 
 Phil Payne
 Committee Member, UK Audi [ur-]quattro Owners Club


Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 21:13:55 GMT
From: quk@isham-research.demon.co.uk (Phil Payne)
Subject: Backlit guage info

In message <971023120228_274763468@emout12.mail.aol.com> AudiQtroCp@aol.com writes:

> I don't think there is a snowballs chance in h*ll that you will get 25 people
> to agree on anything here.  The best thing for you to do is to talk to
> someone who can mass market them,  that will be the key to the price problem.

> I'm actually working on a set for the front lit gauges of the UrQ and the 4k
> series.  But I don' t have the resources to attempt it for the backlit
> gauges.

Front-lit gauges?  ur-quattro?  How many?

- -- 
 Phil Payne
 Committee Member, UK Audi [ur-]quattro Owners Club


Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 21:25:57 GMT
From: quk@isham-research.demon.co.uk (Phil Payne)
Subject: The Apology

In message <s44f2313.080@wposmtp.nps.navy.mil> Gross Scruggs writes:

>  I was wondering who would do that, and I hereby proffer a megabyte sized ...

NO! NO! Anything but that!!!  Please!  Just a kilobyte sized one ...

(I have to admit not noticing the original offence ...)

- -- 
 Phil Payne
 Committee Member, UK Audi [ur-]quattro Owners Club


Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 21:27:52 GMT
From: quk@isham-research.demon.co.uk (Phil Payne)
Subject: to audi or not to audi

In message <344f8d610.b21@coredump.newjersey.sco.com> rogers@coredump.newjersey.sco.com writes:

> I'm kinda scared of all those stories about rebuilding
> engines, ...

Ten years old - 148,000 miles on the same engine and transmission.  One
new clutch plate, did the top end once, and I changed the hydraulic tappets
a while back.  Zero oil use between 5000 mile changes.  Lead boot on right

(And _HAMMERS_ BMW M3s into the ground!)

- -- 
 Phil Payne
 Committee Member, UK Audi [ur-]quattro Owners Club


Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 16:13:51 -0400
From: Jim Griffin <JGriff@pobox.com>
Subject: Cross-threaded wheel bolt saga (long)

I think that I may have told you all that NTB, this past Monday, cross-threaded one of the wheel bolts on the passenger rear of my '87 VW QSW. I took it back to them on Wednesday, and yep, they snapped it off inside the hub. That was at 11:30 a.m.

All afternoon, they made a gallant effort to fix it, albeit armed with pry bars, vise grips, big hammers etc. They of course had none of the right tools. I told them to get in touch with the VW dealer two miles down the road, but noooo... they had to try it their way first. Well, after getting a new hub, and then a new bearing (after the first one was the wrong one...), they proceeded to try and install them.

They actually did rather well (after taking off just about everything in the way... brakes, axles etc.. although I wasn't too keen on their using vise grips on the bolts that hold in the rear CV joint/axle), up until they had to get the hub put into the new bearing that was pressed into the axle housing (if that's what it is called). I KNOW that you need a special tool for this, and I told them that, but they proceeded to take big hammers, and sockets, and try to beat it in there. I was just shaking my head... and trying to remain calm.

They decided to grind down the leading edge, to try and get it "started", at which point they figured all the hammering would just get it to slide in. Well, that didn't work (I could have said "I told you so!!"). Now, they have this new hub, somewhat disfigured, hammered into the new bearing. It won't go in any further, so they try take it out. But this time, it is in there so tight, that when he pulls it out, the bearing falls apart (he literally pulled the front piece off, and all the ball bearings fell out!!) ARRGGHHH!!!

It is now about 6:30 p.m., and I've been there all day. I now have no car... and I planned on taking it up to my TRUSTWORTHY dealership today (Thursday) to take a general peek and offer advice on why sometimes the shifter is a bit notchy. Well, that plan went out the window (I've rescheduled for Friday). So, the whole day was a complete waste, and it screws up my life for two days. All because some "misfit" can't properly hand tighten a bolt.... and make sure it is seated correctly before he takes the air gun to it.

As I sit here typing, they are having another go at it today. The difference is that I FIRMLY told them that they MUST get in touch with the dealership down the road, and have one of their folks come down and do it, or loan them the correct tools. That was the plan... I'll find out soon if it worked out okay.

When I last called, they said that they were taking the whole control arm off and bringing it down to the dealer, to have the bearing and hub pressed into place. Has anyone ever heard of this before? Surely, there must be a special tool or another way rather than take the whole assembly off!! ARRGGHHH!!

BTW, they were nice enough to get me a rental car for today. Of course, I didn't need it... I'd drive my '92 100S before I'd get in and go anywhere in that Geo Metro!! (Has anyone seen that McDonald's ad with the weary traveller, who gets a "Speck" as a rental car? That's what I feel like in this thing!!).

Anyway, thanks for listening to me vent. ARRGGHHH!!

P.S. On a positive note, when I was in having the timing belt and water pump replaced on my '92 100S on Tuesday, the "ding" man was there, and he said he could take out the very annoying and apparent ding in my rear quarter panel, as well two small ones in the passenger door, for $75.00!! Yahoo!! I had gotten an estimate for just the one rear quarter panel for $250.00!!

You can't tell that any dings even existed!! Needless to say, I was ecstatic!! Yippee!!

At least SOMETHING went in my favor this week!!

                              Jim Griffin

<bold>                 </bold>JGriff@pobox.com


</color>Maryland, USA

   "Perception is often stronger than reality!"

                          '92 Audi 100S

          '87 VW Quantum Syncro Wagon



Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 09:42:55 -0700
From: Peter Henriksen <peterhe@microsoft.com>
Subject: Re: Why an SUV (OK, so there's no Audi content in this)

And they are disproportionally heavy (to their utility and usage). Road wear
apparently goes up by the square of the weight increase (did that come out
right? A doubling in weight means 4 times the road wear). Maybe a tax based
on weight - no, wait, not on 3800 lbs Audis... :-)
- - peter


Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 14:42:35 -0700
From: russ southerlin <russell.s.southerlin@ast.lmco.com>
Subject: Stock CIS, running out of gas at 2 bar?

You wrote:
>I don't know if the fuel distributor plunger
continues to output more fuel all the way to the top of the
plate travel or if it tops out earlier.

I think from taking my fuel dist apart (maybe something good can come
from destroying a fuel dist.) that once the plunger clears the top of
internal slits that meter fuel to the injectors you would not deliver
more fuel to the injectors with increased plunger travel given a steady
state lambda circuit (I don't know how you could determine this point
except by measuring plunger height). But you could deliver more fuel via
the lambda circuit. If the ECU detected a lean condition I think it
would try to correct it by changing the dwell on the lambda circuit
unitil it was at a full rich condition (OXS F/V full open) in which case
if the plunger was at full travel you would have max fuel delivery.

87 5KTQ


Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 13:48:24 -0700
From: steveb@falcon.kla-tencor.com (Steven Buchholz)
Subject: RE: 5000S Air Conditioning System Problems

I was told on my urQ that the evaporator valve was plugged, making 
it impossible for refrigerant to flow in the circuit ... it would 
just build up in the pump.  This problem is one I'll need to address 
soon ... the '85 4kQ has a similar problem.  On the urQ I figure it 
was due to a compressor falling apart perhaps leaving bits of metal 
in the system.

Steve Buchholz
San Jose, CA (USA)


Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 12:49:40 -0400
From: "Mike Hopton" <mike@genesis-microchip.on.ca>
Subject: V8 for sale in Toronto

     There is a Lago blue Audi V8 for sale in Toronto. The car is a 1990, 
     185,000kms, automatic. Apparently it had "$3,400" work spent on it, 
     don't know all the details but that includes timing belt and water 
     pump. Asking $9,500 CDN.... I'm not interested in this car but will 
     take a look at it tomorrow morning. Since the price of V8 parts is so 
     high it seems like an excellent opportuinity to pick up some spares ;)
     .... hmmm although my wife likes automatics.
     Regards, Mike
     p.s. Big thanks go out to Audidudi Publishing Inc!


Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 16:58:42 -0400
From: Bill.Brace@donnelly.com
Subject: Re: How to remove distributor; was "Turkey Noise"

If yours is the same as mine there is a cover over the hold down bolt for
the distributer. The cover appears to be held in place by a large pop rivit
witha domed head.  I drilled mine off and after much agravation and a
broken drill bit or two I got the cover off to find out that the "rivit"
was really a regular right hand thread bolt with a special breakaway head.
When originally installed they torqued it down until the head broke off.
     What I would recommend is taking a punch with a sharp point and a
hammer.  Locate the punch near an edge and tap it counterclockwise until it
loosens - then you can unscrew it with your hand!!!  Good luck and happy


Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 21:44:15 GMT
From: quk@isham-research.demon.co.uk (Phil Payne)
Subject: Oil Pans & Valve Covers

In message <344FC877.1A12127A@nh.ultranet.com> Huw Powell writes:

> paint it high temp orange and use stove high temp black paint for the logo
> and raised ribs.

ROF,L.  Malcolm Lake, UK Club Events Secretary, has painted and decorated his 
MB ur-quattro in Royal Blue and Yellow.

The car is basically blue, as is the upholstery.  Each seam on each seat, 
however, is picked out in yellow piping.  In the engine bay, the colour scheme 
is continued with bright yellow gas-filled struts (the later ur-quattros have 
self-elevating bonnets) and the lettering picked out in bright yellow on a blue 
powder-coated ground.  

- -- 
 Phil Payne
 Committee Member, UK Audi [ur-]quattro Owners Club


Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 14:07:17 -0700
From: ptimmerm@mashtun.JPL.NASA.GOV
Subject: Re: quattro-digest V4 #1256

>If my vote counts for anything, your offense rates the 'wool underwear'
>penance at a maximum.  What say ye, gentlemen of the jury?

I vow to reduce it to one month of a stuck on seat heater. ;-)

paul timmerman



End of quattro-digest V4 #1257

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